More Shed Roof Questions

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Old 09-28-06, 04:00 PM
T
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More Shed Roof Questions

Here I am again with what may be some silly questions. Take it easy on me I'm a newbie to construction practices.

1. I used a 2x8 ridge board on the shed I am building. It overhangs the gable ends by 1 foot. I am using 2 x 6 rafters and 2 x 6 subfascia (probably overkill but then the whole thing is over engineered). Seems to me that I have to make the ridge board narrower (i.e., less than the current 7.25" height) where it overhangs so that the aluminum soffit and fascia will fit properly in a nice triangle at the gable end peak. Is that correct?

2. The drip edge that I bought has a cross section kinda shaped like a letter T. However, the leg that goes down the fascia is straight. Will this cause a problem if I install a gutter on the eaves? Do I have to get this leg into the gutter? BTW I'm thinking of letting the shingles overlap the top of the T as well.

3. I've got nice tight joints where the rafters meet the ridge board. However, the birdmouths do not sit perfectly flat on the top plate. Some have about a 1/8" gap at one end. Is this going to be a problem. Should I put shims in the gaps?

4. I've also installed Simpson H1 connectors where the rafters meet the top plate. But now looking at some diagrams I think I put them in the wrong place. I've got them on the inside of the shed instead of the outside. Is this a problem? I can see it would be a problem if I was going to cover the inside walls (which I do not intend to do). They will also interfere with any cross members I may need to install at the rafters from wall to wall. Don't know why I didn't see this problem in advance.

Thanks
 
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Old 09-28-06, 05:23 PM
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1). correct.

2). It sounds like you have d-style drip edge. It usually has a small kick out at the bottom. Personally, I only use d-style on the gable ends, and I use gutter apron (longer lip downward, more like an L that's turned 90 degrees clockwise). IMO, gutter apron works better over gutters (hence the name), but I'm sure your flashing will work too- just don't pull it tight against the fascia- leave it 1/4" away so the gutter can slip underneath it.

3). shims wouldn't hurt anything.

4). that's a pretty common mistake. They won't hurt anything on the inside, provided you were still able to nail in the spaces provided. You can install cross ties or ceiling joists right over the top of them, just avoid them when you nail.
 
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Old 09-28-06, 05:35 PM
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XSleeper ... Once again I thank you for your advice. I feel pretty stupid about putting those Simpson connectors on the wrong side. I feel like doing a Homer Simpson DUH!

One more question ... This is a small shed (only 8 x 10) but I'm using it as a construction learning experience (hence the over engineering). I have five sets of rafters on 24" centers. The end rafters are in one foot from the gable ends. The gable ends are set lower and the lookouts go from the first set of rafters across the gable ends out the the subfascia on the gable ends. I was going to put cross-ties on only two of the five sets of rafters (i.e., the ones set in three feet from each end). Is that enough cross-ties and do I need ceiling joists if I use cross ties?
 
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Old 09-28-06, 09:10 PM
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Hmm, Homer Simpson... Simpson Strongties... I wonder if their marketing departments have ever thought of joining forces? LOL

Since you are "over engineering" it, cross ties on 2 of 5 pair would be fine. On such a small shed, you really don't need any, but like you mentioned, its a good place to practice your techniques. And I guess you never know if a couple 500lb roofers will be on your roof someday.

As for the lookouts, I prefer to have all the rafters the same height, then notch out the one above the wall and "let in" a 3' long 2x4 which butts into the side of the next rafter over. But I'm sure your method works just as well!
 
 

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