gutter trouble
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gutter trouble
i have gutters in the back of my home and they dont work real good, the leak, i beleive they overflow and there always clogged up with leaves and such, its about a 40 ft. run with a drop on each end. i mainly got them to keep water off the back porch and i have a few plants that i dont want water pouring on them and killing them, is there anything out there that would work better than what i got now? thanks.
#2
Most people have to clean their gutters out at least twice a year. Have you been doing that? Leaks can be stopped by applying a brushable sealant once the gutters are clean and dry.
#3

Check at the bog box stores. They now have a cover plate for the gutter not the screens. That goes on the top of the gutter this lets the leaves and junk to like slip on off. But right at the edge .Slots that let the water down into the gutter. check them out
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twice a year! LOL, more like once a month, i have tried a couple of sealant, but they end up cracking and such. ill get some of the covers ED is talking about. but it also seems like water gets behind my gutters and pours down from there, is there anything to stop that? thanks
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Size and number of downspouts is often more important than gutter size. Each 2" x 3" downspout will carry approximately 600 sq ft of roof area. A
3x4" will carry approximately 1,200 sq ft. and not clog as easily as the 2x3". Most overflow problems are caused by undersized downspouts and/or not enough downspouts. Gutter screens will prevent large debris like leaves and twigs out of gutters, but they don't keep everything out. Solid covers work if the roof is not too steep.
3x4" will carry approximately 1,200 sq ft. and not clog as easily as the 2x3". Most overflow problems are caused by undersized downspouts and/or not enough downspouts. Gutter screens will prevent large debris like leaves and twigs out of gutters, but they don't keep everything out. Solid covers work if the roof is not too steep.
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yes, the back of the gutter is under the drip edge, they may be overflowing. we had a pretty big rain this morning, i have 2, 2 x 3 downspouts on a 40 ft. run. is that not enough?
has anyone ever heard or used this product?
http://www.rainhandler.com/index.html
has anyone ever heard or used this product?
http://www.rainhandler.com/index.html
#8

I am lost here 2 2 X 3 down spout on 40 ft of gutter should work like a dream. Now next it how much roof runs into this gutter????? If a lot could be you need a 6 " gutter with a 3X4 spouts.
That www. it dont control the wqter and make it go where you want
That www. it dont control the wqter and make it go where you want
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If you notice in the animation that the lawn is well sloped to carry the water away from the structure. The problem is that if the lawn is not properly sloped that the water will be dumped at the base of the structure. In theory, the product looks like it would be effective with proper slope.
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i hate pine trees.
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Danny, Well at least we have the same name. I have guttered for 20 years now. I would go with 2 3x4 downspouts. This will allow the larger particles to pass through.
On a level house it should drop the guttering 1/8 of an inch per 10 feet. If you have two downs that means it will be high in the middle and drop minimum 1/4 an inch both directions. I personally drain it as much as I can yet staying behind the roof flashing and keeping it looking nice from the ground.
Pine needles are always a problem but you can install the solid enclosed system. If you want the product I recommend you will have to PM me.
I know others may disagree but stay away from rainhandler. That's all I will say about that.
When you install the 3x4 make sure you cut the hole larger two. I have replaced many a gutter where 3x4 were installed but they didn't enlarge the hole. Duh! I also don't want to assume you are using continuous guttering. If not then that is a must also because all seams will eventually leak. Stay away from the roll on sealer which was mentioned earlier.
On a level house it should drop the guttering 1/8 of an inch per 10 feet. If you have two downs that means it will be high in the middle and drop minimum 1/4 an inch both directions. I personally drain it as much as I can yet staying behind the roof flashing and keeping it looking nice from the ground.
Pine needles are always a problem but you can install the solid enclosed system. If you want the product I recommend you will have to PM me.
I know others may disagree but stay away from rainhandler. That's all I will say about that.
When you install the 3x4 make sure you cut the hole larger two. I have replaced many a gutter where 3x4 were installed but they didn't enlarge the hole. Duh! I also don't want to assume you are using continuous guttering. If not then that is a must also because all seams will eventually leak. Stay away from the roll on sealer which was mentioned earlier.
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i installed the gutters myself, and i did the 1/8 per 10 ft. of gutter.
i dont know what you mean about a continuous run. yes, it does leak at the seams. i also dont know what you mean about cutting a hole, i can just replace the downspout with a 3 x 4 one. i have the plastic gutters, i got them at lowes.
i dont know what you mean about a continuous run. yes, it does leak at the seams. i also dont know what you mean about cutting a hole, i can just replace the downspout with a 3 x 4 one. i have the plastic gutters, i got them at lowes.
#13
I should have mentioned the brand name before, but the brushable sealant I referred to earlier is Geocel Pro Flex or Weathershield brushable sealant and it works great for sealing joints and corners that leak after the fact. I've used it multiple times with great success on gutters, sunroom roofs, car ports, RV's, Cube van roofs, etc, without any callbacks. It's like a rubbery coating that stays flexible and does not crack.
http://www.doityourself.com/store/6696132.htm
http://www.doityourself.com/store/6696132.htm
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If you are using the plastic or vinyl then the joints will always leak and you will have slope problems. The rubber joint seal deteriorates sectional gutters lose its slope. The plastic guttering also does not have the depth to handle heavier rains. there also is a gap behind the vinyl. this gap is created by the fastener.
By continuous, I mean the seamless guttering (most of which is aluminum but you can get painted steel) which has no seams between corners. If you were in my area I would be happy to run out what you need to do it right. Maybe there is a contractor who would be willing to do it.
By continuous, I mean the seamless guttering (most of which is aluminum but you can get painted steel) which has no seams between corners. If you were in my area I would be happy to run out what you need to do it right. Maybe there is a contractor who would be willing to do it.