Metal Roof for A-Frame


  #1  
Old 06-26-07, 09:24 PM
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Metal Roof for A-Frame

I'm looking at buying an A-frame vacation property.
The roof definitely needs replacing within 1-2 years.
Currently there are two layers of asphalt shingles directly over 2x6 pine T&G. (it looks very nice from the inside and don't want to mess with that).
When replacing the roof, I'd like to winterize it and I was thinking of insulating the roof from the outside by removing the asphalt shingles, then laying 2x2 strapping vertically up the roof and insulating with styrofoam insulation (or equivilant), then covering that up with standing seam metal roof attached to the same 2x2 strapping.
There are not a lot of features on the roof other than a chimney in the middle and a small dormer on one side.

Does anyone see a problem with this idea?
Ventilation for the metal roof required?
What kind of approximate cost per square foot should I factor in to my offer price on the home for material and labor in the North East? ( I know this is a tough question, but would really love some ballpark estimates on this!)
The footprint of the building is 25x32, so I estimate the square footage of the roof to be approx 1600' (close to double the footprint)
Thanks for your thoughts!

Thanks!
 
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Old 06-27-07, 03:47 PM
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Your not going to get much change from a $5000 bill I don't think. the roofing you have chosen is very expensive. Now, my company puts on 6 or 7 metal roofs a year on houses. Here is what we do. If you have two layers, we would strip the roof. Then I would apply fan fold insulation on the roof, followed by 1 x 4's screwed on top of it into the roof. The 1 x 4's are applied across the roof. From the bottom to the top every 2'. The I would use metal sheets, some people call it barn metal, but that is a carry over from the old days. This is screwed into the 1 x 4's. It can be ordered up to 40' in length. The screws are screwed into the top of the ridge. The gap between the bottom of the metal and the top of the insulation is air space. It acts as a warming effect in the winter, and a cooling effect in the summer.
The foam insulation won't help much except help spend your money. Good Luck
 
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Old 06-30-07, 03:30 AM
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Thanks for your reply Jack!
Does the Fan fold insulation add much R value to the roof?
Would that $5000 bill also cover the cost of stripping and disposing the old asphalt shingles?

"The foam insulation won't help much except help spend your money"

Is there anything that I could do to add more R value to the roof?

Thanks again, you've already been very helpfull!
Mike
 
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Old 06-30-07, 06:41 PM
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I would have to refigure it again, but I believe that is include in the cost. I don't know why I would leave it out. The fan fold insulation has an R value of about 1. Not much.. It is used as a leveler so you have a smooth roof.
If you wanted to increase your insulation, you should do that from the inside.
Have a good weekend and 4th of July.
 
  #5  
Old 07-03-07, 07:45 PM
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Thanks again Jack.
Happy 4th to you too.

I've been tied up with negotiation for the house, let alone insulating and re-roofing.
 
  #6  
Old 07-04-07, 09:12 AM
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similar issue a frame roof insulation..

Hi I am planning to build an a frame cabin in idaho. The winters are tough there and am looking to have good insulation. However I would still prefer to have the open beam look with t&g inside.

I thought to install the T&G then vapor barrier then 4" foam insulation? between 2x4 and sheath on top. Or maybe just 1x4 on top. Then metal roofing.

Does that make sense is there another proper way to do this. Cost effective as well.

Thanks
 
 

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