Fascia Soffit replacement problem


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Old 08-01-07, 05:09 PM
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Question Fascia Soffit replacement problem

I am trying to change a few rotting fascia and soffits around my home and am having problems assessing how to begin and what order to work in.
1. The existing fascia is covered by aluminum and when I remove them how should I fill in the holes left by the nails and previous gutters? I know some will be replaced.
2. There is the drip edge from the roof covering the fascia and I don't know how I should work around it. I doesn't seem to be attached but it is kinda in the way for removing old fascia because I can't cut it. Any tips on working around the drip edge?
3. A potion of the fascia that needs to be replaced is covered by an aluminum patio cover. How do I go about changing such a piece?
4. I am planning on repainting the house(only fascia and soffits). Should I pressure wash everything before of after I change the damaged areas?
5. Should I take the fascia down to paint them since some of it is blocked by the drip edge? This would have to done to all around the house.
6. We have wood fascia and soffits and I'm not sure what kind of wood is typically used. Treated or untreated?
Any help would be appreciated and I can email pictures to help clarify the problem.
Sincerly,
Edward
Renovating in NOLA
 
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Old 08-01-07, 05:37 PM
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1). If you can't pull the nails out of the aluminum fascia cover, it works well to take a large nail punch and drive the nails on through the fascia cover. It sounds like you are getting rid of all the aluminum fascia cover altogether? In that case, you'd want to fill the nail holes in the wood with an exterior wood filler, which would need to be sanded and likely reapplied, and sanded again. You could also caulk and smooth the nail holes prior to painting, depending on how picky you want to be about the nail holes. Unless I've misunderstood and you are asking about how to repair the nail holes in the aluminum.

2). The problem is more likely the nails that might be penetrating into the top of the old fascia boards. Getting the old fascia off should not be a problem even with the drip edge there. If the boards you are taking off are getting replaced, you can split them in half, removing the lower half and pry against the rafter tails to get the remaining fascia off of the top half.

3). You can't. Not without removing the roof of the patio cover, since it is likely attached to the fascia. You would likely need to stop replacing the fascia near the patio cover by cutting it vertically at the nearest rafter tail.

4). Doing it AFTER might make more sense- since when you tear into it, you might be replacing more of the old wood than you think. Once it's repaired, it will be obvious what needs to be scraped / washed. Be sure to allow plenty of dry time after power washing- primer and paint won't hold on wood that has a high moisture content. Depending on your weather conditions, 2 weeks or more might need to pass. Doing it before would give the wood more time to dry, as you work on replacing the rotton wood, but it would make a muddy mess for you to work in. Personally, I'd do it after... let it dry, then come back later to paint.

5). Painting the exposed portions of the existing fascia should be good enough. Priming and painting any new fascia BEFORE it goes up would make good sense. Painting all 6 sides of each board (priming, painting cut ends as it is installed) helps paint jobs last longer, provided weathering is not being accelerated by water infiltration.

6). Soffits are typically made of 3/8" AC plywood. (may vary depending on location- you would match your existing material as closely as possible.) Fascia also would need to match existing, but generally cedar fascia is a good choice. It's commonly available in finger jointed dimensions such as 1x6 and 1x8. Cedar has good rot resistance. It's not likely that you would want to use any type of treated wood. Miratec makes a composite product that also works well for fascia and trim. Not sure how it would match up with your existing, however.
 
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Old 08-03-07, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by eddy183
2. There is the drip edge from the roof covering the fascia and I don't know how I should work around it. I doesn't seem to be attached but it is kinda in the way for removing old fascia because I can't cut it. Any tips on working around the drip edge?

Sincerly,
Edward
Renovating in NOLA
Edward,
We are dealing the exact same problem. I started a thread in here a few days back - no responses yet. Our drip edge covers the top of the fascia. The fascia was attached with nails that are under the drip edge. If you figure out a way to remove and replace your fascia without ruining the drip edge, let me know!

roxy500
 
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Old 08-03-07, 12:34 PM
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When I removed my fascia, I cut the nails with a sawzall. Came right off and drip edge was fine. If you don't have a sawzall, then I have no ideas.
 
 

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