On the sloped part of the roof edge there are no gutters or rain channels. Water is supposed to flow down the slope to the eaves where the gutters are and then its carried to the downspouts. Pretty basic. A lot of water sheds off of the edges at the slopes, from the peak down, however and this bugs me. I thought gluing / calking some some vinyl L trim just under the lip to guide the water down the slope to the gutter (I've got oversized gutters and downspouts) but wasnt sure it this was recomended or if there was a better way. I'm in an all out effort to improve drainage all around so carrying the water down and away from the building is good.

 

does your house have drip edge?

 

Not sure what you mean by drip edge. The tar shingles just extend out to the slope edges. There is nothing over or under it. Does that answer it? I thought a drip edge might be something along side or under the edge of the roof that caught water and helped it flow to the eave edge but I'm not sure where it would go from there or even if that is a drip edge. Can you explain a bit more?

 

Here's a page with illustrations that show drip edge and how it is applied.

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/r...e/prep/dry.htm

 

Thanks. One picture explains a lot. I assume the drip edge is supposed to keep rain from going over the edges. But its not working that great and I have a 2 story house - when the rain comes off along the sloped edges it makes an impact on the ground. Is there additional insurance instead of just the drip edge? Or some repair like a lip installed along the slope or is that just stupid?

 

You could try something like this:
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/vide...630881,00.html

 

Just to be sure we are all on the same page, are you referring to the "rake"?

 

ok enough,drip edge goes under the rake edge shingles,and is meant to keep water off of the wood rake trim,and kick water slightly out from structure(emphasis on slightly)--what you are looking for wood be a diverter ,although connies link says diverter,that`s not what they show---you can buy 2"x2",or 3"x3" right angle metal,remove the nails from the rake edge shingles(just within 6"of the edge),slide the right angle metal under the rake edge shingles ,positioned so one edge faces the shy,and one goes under the shingles,so the center of the right angle butts the existing rake shingles(like an "L"),RENAIL THE RAKE SHINGLES, so the nails also go thru the metal diverter(rt. angle metal),then use Karnak ultra,Henry elastomer,or other rubberized quality or SBS STYLE ROOF CAULKING WHERE THE SHINGLES MEET THE METAL,so you do not channel the water underneath the rake shingles-as a properly installed gutter extends up to 1/2" past the roof rake edge,this will allow the water to channel into your gutter-please use care,and follow safety practices so as not to get injured as roofing is dangerous work !!!

 

if that isn`t it,please come back with pictures