Decided to DIY on EPDM flat roof
#1
04-12-08, 06:02 PM
Decided to DIY on EPDM flat roof
Hello,
After weighing all the options and prices I've decided to DIY on an EPDM roof with a slight slope.
The current layers of the roof going from the inside of the house up are, 3/4" planks with some water damage. A layer of what appears to be shingles (does tar and gravel also look like shingles?) and a thin layer of tin and then the faulty rubber membrane that is there now.
Question 1: Am I going to have a hell of a time ripping all that stuff up? I hear if there is Tar and Gravel then I am committing myself to slavery.
Question 2: I am skilled at framing and wanted to know if the following game plan will be sufficient. I have decided to replace damaged wood along the edges of the roof and then sister in 2x6 (or should I use 2x8?) to the existing rafter structure to create a consistent slope since the current structure is rough lumber with traditional 2x6 and has a few dips in the roof deck. I am then going to put 3/4" Plywood on top of that.
Question 3: My next door neighbor is the one that convinced me that I'm better off doing it myself since he had issues with flat roofs on properties he landlords/used to own and most roofing contractors he's worked with, either ended up not knowing much about rubber roofs or would then start adding in a bunch of extras for the 'oh look what we came across'. Would I be getting in way over my head on this one? The last thing I want is to pay a roofer who has a bit more experience in flat roofing than I do and have to pay out the cash for basically nothing or to hire someone who's going to start tacking on a huge bill for stuff that I'm capable of doing (last I heard industry rate for a sheet of plywood was $75 which it would cost me $25 and time).
After weighing all the options and prices I've decided to DIY on an EPDM roof with a slight slope.
The current layers of the roof going from the inside of the house up are, 3/4" planks with some water damage. A layer of what appears to be shingles (does tar and gravel also look like shingles?) and a thin layer of tin and then the faulty rubber membrane that is there now.
Question 1: Am I going to have a hell of a time ripping all that stuff up? I hear if there is Tar and Gravel then I am committing myself to slavery.
Question 2: I am skilled at framing and wanted to know if the following game plan will be sufficient. I have decided to replace damaged wood along the edges of the roof and then sister in 2x6 (or should I use 2x8?) to the existing rafter structure to create a consistent slope since the current structure is rough lumber with traditional 2x6 and has a few dips in the roof deck. I am then going to put 3/4" Plywood on top of that.
Question 3: My next door neighbor is the one that convinced me that I'm better off doing it myself since he had issues with flat roofs on properties he landlords/used to own and most roofing contractors he's worked with, either ended up not knowing much about rubber roofs or would then start adding in a bunch of extras for the 'oh look what we came across'. Would I be getting in way over my head on this one? The last thing I want is to pay a roofer who has a bit more experience in flat roofing than I do and have to pay out the cash for basically nothing or to hire someone who's going to start tacking on a huge bill for stuff that I'm capable of doing (last I heard industry rate for a sheet of plywood was $75 which it would cost me $25 and time).
#2
04-13-08, 07:20 AM
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Planks are OK because you'll want 1"ISO over that, with screws and plates, Pay attention to which side is up. I like picture framing the edges of the roof with 1x 8's, then putting the ISO to the inside of the oicture frame.
The 1x8's make a nice nailer for the Drip edges, and after putting the cover tape on, there's no hump around the edges for water to 'climb' over.
Use seam tape on the seams. Get a manual and read it 2-4 times before starting.
( I left out AN AWFUL lot of details you're need to know! )
The 1x8's make a nice nailer for the Drip edges, and after putting the cover tape on, there's no hump around the edges for water to 'climb' over.
Use seam tape on the seams. Get a manual and read it 2-4 times before starting.
( I left out AN AWFUL lot of details you're need to know! )
