Replace Roof


  #1  
Old 04-17-08, 05:52 PM
F
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Replace Roof

Good evening,

My bride & I designed and built our 35' x 65' two story envelope retirement home in 1988. We used asphalt roofing that was waranteed for 25 years by the manufacturer (Certainteed). We had hoped to get maybe a few extra years more so we would not have to be replacing our roof.

However, last spring when I was checking the chiminey after the heating season, it looked like the shingles on the south side would not last 25 years.

This morning as I was checking the chiminey again, it is very obvious that the roofing is not going to last another winter with out leaking.

I have contacted certainteed and sent the samples and pictures and information requested to iniate a claim which they may honor or refuse in the next three to four weeks.

In the mean time, I would like to have some quality advice.

Since the asphalt shingles do not seem to stand up on the south side of our roof (those on the north side look like they may last another 5 years) should I be considering metal roofing on the south side?

What are the pros and cons of metal roof?

Where can I get good information on installation and cost?

Is is possible to mount a premanent walkway or ladder on a metal roof for the purpose of examining the chimney? The pitch is 6" /foot so something is needed to avoid slidding off a metal roof in my humble opinion.

We heat our 35' x 65' two story envelope home with wood. (Less than two chords per winter)

If asphalt is still the best option, what brand would you think would stand up the best?

I know this is asking a lot at once but I would appreciate all the information that I can get. I am 72 and want to do it right the first time if at all possible.

Thank you
Sincerely
Richard Hyde
 
  #2  
Old 04-18-08, 12:12 PM
tinner666's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Richmond, Va.
Posts: 154
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
A partial answer is that metal should last a VERY long time. I do copper and steel. Steel fades after awhile, but could still make it 30 years without painting,IMHO.
My copper roofs are expected to last 3-6 generations, or more.

Asphalt shingles seem lousy nowadays.

On my house and a few others, I used 50 year dimensionals and lapped the ends instead of butting them to eliminate water in the joints. ( I've had to repair a few done normally with mystery leaks at the butt joints)






I figure that if a dimensional is supposed to look 'rough' I'd rough it up!
PS It would easily add 20% or more to your cost. Weaving a roof has a learning curve.
 
  #3  
Old 04-26-08, 03:58 PM
M
Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Media, PA
Posts: 174
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
That weaving technique is interesting and you seem real knowledgeable.
We're due for a roof and we're getting the typical "it's a disaster" to "it's typical - no problem". Wow, who can you trust out there ?
Anyway, our 60 year old house has a well-built heritage with brick and wood construction. The trusses in the ceiling of the attic are the old, strong 2x8's, with 16" centers. However, the wood decking that was used back then was only 7/16". There are no signs of leakage or even weeping....but the flat shingles are now looking worn and tattered...giving us a bad "roadside" impressiion. We do show "slight" bowing of the trusses but nothing that IMHO would really "show" if we were to replace the roof with dimensional shingles.
My questions are:
1) can we just roof OVER the existing worn flat shingled roof ?
What are the cons of doing so ?
2) If #1 is yes, can we first lay down a layer of winter-guard, a rubber-like material that provides an extra layer of protection ? Or would this add too much weight ?
Or is it not doable with existing shingles in place ?

Thanks in advance !
 
  #4  
Old 04-27-08, 09:15 AM
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: rockland county,new york
Posts: 111
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
RIP IT OFF,also check that you have proper R-value insulation,proper soffit,and ridge ventilation,and quality installation,2nd roofs don`t last due to closing the breathability of the roof,radiant heat will damage the plywood and asphalt shingles in half the time of a single layer roof--metal will last the longest,and Tinner is supremely skilled at the metal roofing,I do it as well,but bow to Frank`s knowledge of that subject
 
  #5  
Old 04-27-08, 11:02 AM
M
Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Media, PA
Posts: 174
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks, but you didn't answer the question of the winter-guard material ? Wouldn't that also reduce the breathability of a roof as well ? Why would our highest bidder recommend it then ?
 
  #6  
Old 04-27-08, 03:13 PM
tinner666's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Richmond, Va.
Posts: 154
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Sorry for the delay. Been busy.
Rip it OFF.
Ice and Storm shield only goes along the eaves and valleys. I like to use it to the point of 3' inside the walls. Use 15 or 30 # felt the rest of the way.
I'm looking at GAF Deack Armor as a suitable substitute for felt. It claims to be breathable.


Thanks for the kind words TRG. Nice avatar too.
 
  #7  
Old 04-27-08, 08:08 PM
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: rockland county,new york
Posts: 111
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
the winterguard is certainteeds version of ice&water shield,and should be used for proper waterproofing,each company seems to have their own version
typically Ice&Water shield is installed on unheated zones with minimal amounts(2 ft past bearing wall)into the heated zones
 

Last edited by the roofing god; 04-27-08 at 08:11 PM. Reason: to elaborate further
  #8  
Old 05-23-08, 08:01 AM
I
Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 14
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Installing New Roof on our 2 storey home with steep roof

Tinner wrote:

"Asphalt shingles seem lousy nowadays."

We are in the process of selecting shingles for a new roof on our 2 storey home and we are trying to select the best we can afford. Our steep roof takes about 46 squares of shingles. We want an architectural dimensional shingle which will be long lasting and maintain its rich look. Which manufactuer and asphalt shingle would you recommend? If they are all pretty 'lousy', I guess it doesn't matter much.

Also, our present wind damaged roof has no ridge vents but only two attic exhaust fans with about 12 turtle roof vents and a moderate amount of soffit vents. Should we switch over to ridge vents when installing the new roof to achieve better attic ventilation, and do ridge vents provide ample air circulation in the attic to get trapped humidity out?

any expert advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

Last edited by Irishking23; 05-23-08 at 08:32 AM.
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: