Help needed with new roof leaking


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Old 12-10-08, 04:20 PM
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Help needed with new roof leaking

I had a new roof installed (IKO shingles) on my New England home. Since the work took place I've had a number of leak issues around my chimney and dormers. My contractor has taken his time getting to these, but is almost there.

While up in the attic to veiw the chimney leaks at the latest rainfall, I noticed water drops on the underside of the roofing felt in many places (where it's visable from narrow gaps in the roof decking). Is it possible that this new roof is leaking all the way through? I brought my contractor up to show him, and he said that he thought it could be a problem with defective shingles. He went to the local dealer who told him that it could be condensation. I've never seen condensation in my attic, which has gable vents on all four corners and ridge vent on the dormers -it's very airy up there (and the floor is well insulated).

Am I being given a "line?" Or is condensation a possibility?

 
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Old 12-12-08, 08:26 PM
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It sounds like a flashing problem to me. Call the Dept. Of Consumer Affairs. Ask if there have been any complaints about the roofer.
 
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Old 12-16-08, 05:09 AM
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If you have inadequate ceiling insulation,the heat travels to the roof line and condenses against the plywood,same as condensation builds on the inside of old single pane windows in the winter-you need to upgrade your insulation to R-38 +,to keep the heat where it belongs,and this won`t happen,also be sure to wrap openings thru the insulation(pipes,etc.)with insulation,so you have no place for heat to escape into your attic----from the sounds of it,it is condensation occuring,unless it`s just at edges of dormers,and chimney,then the likelihood is that it`s flashing related---roofing has 3 important parts,waterproofing,insulation,and ventilation,and they should bein proper proportion
 
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Old 12-16-08, 04:20 PM
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Make sure all bathroom fans are vented through the roof.
 
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Old 12-16-08, 11:33 PM
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you should also close the gable vents when using ridge,and soffit vents,so as not to interfere with cross ventilation between ridge ,and soffit,also look at proximity of heat pipe /chimney to gable louvres as well,as cold air blowing in against a heat flue,or heated chimney can be a cause for condensation as well,--as far as calling consumer protection is concerned,you should have done that before hiring,and there`s no reason yet to even say the guy is at fault for anything,so why besmirch his reputation until you find out what`s responsible for this,and even then, if it`s a problem from his work (doesn`t sound like it) he should have opportunity to make proper repairs----------
Realistically,If his work was leaking,you would be putting out buckets at those areas,instead of looking at water drops clinging ,which sounds exactly like condensation(by the way)
 
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Old 12-17-08, 05:55 AM
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Hi Ellsworth, nice out this am, at least in Bangor. If I were to guess, the droplets are condensation. But condensation doesn't come from heat alone, it comes from warm moist air, which comes from inside your home. The good news is, eliminating the air leaks will reduce your heating costs as well as any risk of condensation. First, fiberglass insulation will not block air flow. Use fire rated can foam or caulking and seal all holes entering the attic. Electrical wires, plumbing pipes, and around your chimney. Use metal flashing for larger gaps around the chimney. Caulk around any electrical boxes in the ceiling. If you have installed any recessed lights, they should be IC rated and air sealed.

The attic door or hatch entrance needs to be air sealed and well insulated. The air paths are numerous, as any air that leaks into the wall cavities can eventually reach the attic. Seal around all electrical boxes and add those foam inserts.

You mention gable vents and ridge vents, but no soffit vents. If you have no soffits, or soffit vents you may have too much heat out at the edges of your attic. That heat is what melts the snow and causes ice problems. But that's another issue.

If the moisture issue continues after you have air sealed, then you can go after the roofer, but at least your heating bills will be less and the argument about condensation will be off the table.

Happy shoveling
Bud
 
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Old 12-18-08, 02:57 AM
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one of the best insulations on the market is closed cell foam,which is better than icynene because icynene is open cell and will lose r-value-the closed cell will not,and is rated at 6.5-7 R per inch,check it out at soythane.com
 

Last edited by the roofing god; 12-18-08 at 03:02 AM. Reason: someone is changing my post ??? 3 times !!!
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Old 12-18-08, 04:03 PM
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I'm thinking one of us moderators edited his post because he keeps mentioning the "soythane" websites, which could be taken as advertisment.

roofing god,

At the bottom of your post, you will see how you "edited" your post. If you purposely go back and edit it back to the way it was, after a mod edited it, you will get yourself in trouble.
 
 

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