Full Fascia Replacement
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Full Fascia Replacement
I am trying to decide if I should replace the existing ½ inch Masonite fascia with Hardi or MiraTEC. I like that MiraTEC can be worked like wood and that it comes in longer pieces than Hardi. But, the thicker MiraTEC (3/4 inch) causes the drip Edge to flex outward slightly. This drip edge is the kind made to fit the plane of the roof with no overhang lip designed for situations where a gutter isn't needed; except I will be installing gutters. Is forcing this thicker board under the drip edge going to cause a problem? If so then I have to either go with the thinner Hardi or replace the drip edge.
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A third option would be to detail the edge of that 3/4 so the drip edge will fit. If you don't have a table saw, this might be the excuse you were looking for
.
Bud

Bud
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I do not want to get sidetracked on this third option but here are the drawbacks to it:
1) I have a hip roof so there is a lot of fascia to be replaced which means more labor in cutting and priming the boards. MiraTEC boards come already primed.
2) MiraTEC is a manuafactured material and cutting half of it away may alter its ability to not absorb water and will proabably void the warranty.
3) Putting in a notch for the drip edge will change the ability of the drip edge to direct the water off the fascia and it will alter how the gutter tucks up under the drip edge.
On the other hand, a new table saw would be cool!
1) I have a hip roof so there is a lot of fascia to be replaced which means more labor in cutting and priming the boards. MiraTEC boards come already primed.
2) MiraTEC is a manuafactured material and cutting half of it away may alter its ability to not absorb water and will proabably void the warranty.
3) Putting in a notch for the drip edge will change the ability of the drip edge to direct the water off the fascia and it will alter how the gutter tucks up under the drip edge.
On the other hand, a new table saw would be cool!
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I sent a message to MiraTec through their website and they recommend changing the drip edge as opposed to not forcing the wider trim into the existing drip edge. I received the same responses from a gutter expert and from a knowledgeable resource at my local Home Depot. I am impressed with the customer support from MiraTEC along with the quality of their product compared to the price. I also think the thicker trim will look nice. Unfortunately changing the drip edge could cause problems because of the likelihood that shingles will break while removing the old edge.
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Let me start by saying that I am really not a fan of composite products like MiraTEC. I've never worked with this exact product, but I just feel like a composite product shouldn't be outside at all, despite what the manufacturer might say.
However, if you want to use this product, it shouldn't be a problem to take out your old drip edge with a little care and a pry bar. On a warm day your asphalt shingles should lift easily enough to carefully slip a prybar inside and take out the old drip edge. If your roofer was cruel enough to nail all along the edge of the roof it's a pain, and you can curse your roofer, but it's still easy to do carefully enough not to damage the shinges.
I always screw drip edge in underneath both rows on your bottom course of shingles if I can lift them up gently enough, 3"-4" from the edge of the roof, never screwing through a tab.
Personally I think it makes more sense to install 1x wood fascia and cap it with aluminum. A big problem with composites is that if water should somehow penetrate, they will swell up like a balloon and it will really show on butt joints like fascia. I just finished a paper where I thoroughly rejected composite siding as an acceptable product, but since I don't have any first hand experience with it, I guess it could do the job. Just make sure to paint and caulk the hell out of it.
Good luck, keep us updated on how it goes
However, if you want to use this product, it shouldn't be a problem to take out your old drip edge with a little care and a pry bar. On a warm day your asphalt shingles should lift easily enough to carefully slip a prybar inside and take out the old drip edge. If your roofer was cruel enough to nail all along the edge of the roof it's a pain, and you can curse your roofer, but it's still easy to do carefully enough not to damage the shinges.
I always screw drip edge in underneath both rows on your bottom course of shingles if I can lift them up gently enough, 3"-4" from the edge of the roof, never screwing through a tab.
Personally I think it makes more sense to install 1x wood fascia and cap it with aluminum. A big problem with composites is that if water should somehow penetrate, they will swell up like a balloon and it will really show on butt joints like fascia. I just finished a paper where I thoroughly rejected composite siding as an acceptable product, but since I don't have any first hand experience with it, I guess it could do the job. Just make sure to paint and caulk the hell out of it.
Good luck, keep us updated on how it goes