starter course....asphalt shingles

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Old 12-28-10, 04:11 PM
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starter course....asphalt shingles

Hello I need some advice on how to start the starter course for asphalt shingles.I am pretty handy however shingles not one of my strong points.These are three tab asphalt shingles going on my 12x 16 shed.What size roof nail is good? The plywood is half inch and I know nails should go through plywood a certain depth.
 
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Old 12-28-10, 04:42 PM
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Starter courses need to be offset 6" from the seams in the initial row. Nail on the top edge, 12" apart. Be sure the glue strip is down, so that the first row of shingles will seal to the starter strip.
 
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Old 12-29-10, 03:24 AM
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1 1/4 nail. Best thing is to look at the directions and pictures on wraper. Put starter upside down (top and bottom, not front and back) hang over 3 inches for gutter and put your first course at least 6 inches from seam of starter.
 
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Old 12-29-10, 06:41 AM
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I don't think the wrapper says to let the starter course hang 3" over the gutter!
 
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Old 01-01-11, 03:38 AM
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Wraper wont say that and its not over the gutter its into the gutter. I noticed hes in a northern state and I started roofing in New Jersey and thats how we all did it there. I am a Florida contractor now and we dont put any overhang at all here, it gets tared down and cut flush, although some guys leave a half inch.
 
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Old 01-01-11, 07:10 AM
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3" of asphalt shingles will break with the first cold weather season, leaving ragged edges. I would allow an overhang probably 1/2" past the drip edge . You don't want water to overshoot the gutters, either. A flush cut will ensure a capillary washback which you don't want.
 
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Old 01-01-11, 08:54 AM
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I agree, Chandler! It would also make the gutters IMPOSSIBLE to clean! But I see why a person might think that was a good deal, to direct rain into the gutter. IMO the gutter cleaning problems would trump any potential benefits.
 
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Old 01-01-11, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by chandler View Post
3" of asphalt shingles will break with the first cold weather season, leaving ragged edges. I would allow an overhang probably 1/2" past the drip edge . You don't want water to overshoot the gutters, either. A flush cut will ensure a capillary washback which you don't want.
This is exactly what happened to my mother's house. Not enough overhang and now all the fascia is rotted out. It surprises me that in Florida they wouldn't give an overhang with all the rain they get. Maybe because of hurricanes? I would think something else would need to be done to protect the fascia and roof from the water.
 
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Old 01-01-11, 10:54 AM
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Drip edges really work, but you have to coordinate the length of the starter strip with them or they won't work properly. Ideally if you can get your gutters to run up under the edge of the drip, all the water will go into the gutter, but that's not practical with the required drop for drainage.
 
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Old 01-01-11, 01:54 PM
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When I first moved to tenn I was surprised at the number of new homes being built without drip edges. My next roof related surprise was how small the drip edges were. When I worked in fla, the drip edges [usually galvanized] were twice the size of the aluminum drip edges for sale here. Maybe the larger size is used in fla because of hurricanes and more rain.
 
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Old 01-03-11, 07:16 AM
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Yeah for some reason it was the same way when I was helping to replace roofs down in Louisiana after Katrina and Rita. Either there was no drip edge, or they used 5" d-style, which only overlaps the fascia by 1". (6" d-style overlaps by 2", and is about as good over a gutter as gutter apron is.) If a place had gutters, they were rarely tucked behind the flashing, because the flashing wasn't long enough! Apparently no one had heard of gutter apron down there! Up here we only use the d-style drip edge on gable ends! Down there, it was all they used!
 
 

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