Looking for advice on roof replacment :confused:

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  #1  
Old 05-28-11, 08:28 AM
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Looking for advice on roof replacment :confused:

Insurance is replacing my roof ... We are new home owners and need to know what to look for and what to ask...

Our home is 50+ years old
brick
lots of trees in the area
was storm damage
tongue and groove under asphalt shingles
 

Last edited by sarcastagirly1; 05-28-11 at 08:29 AM. Reason: Subscribe to this thread and notify
  #2  
Old 05-28-11, 12:05 PM
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Welcome to the forums! You can't tell if the decking is 100% until the old roof is removed. The old shingles should be removed, all drip edges removed, ridge vent removed, any flashing around chimney removed. THEN it all should be replaced. Make sure the roofer agrees to all this as part of the contract. In addition, when the shingles are delivered, read the package and determine the number of nails the manufacturer requires for proper placement and warranty. If it calls for 5, and they use 4....no warranty. This happened on our house, and they were told to use 5, which they did.
 
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Old 06-10-11, 06:39 PM
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Insurance is replacing your roof.... Oof! My condolences if you hired a storm chaser.

I can post a link to my website if the mods chime in and give me the approval. I have a page on the site that specifically discusses the assembly of an asphalt shingle roofing system.

First you would want a tear off. Ask about how they will protect your property from the dirty nasty tear off. It'll be ALOT of garbage.

Ask them what they do to tune up your roof substrate. Youw ould want the old roofing nails removed and any loose boards refastened. Youw ould want any rotten or damaged boards repalced, and commonly there will be a price per sheet on the proposal. Alot of storm chases don't replace wood because it's hard to get the insurance companies to pay for it. Keep in mind that a game some guys play is give a price per sq ft, when in reality everyone replaces full sheets or half sheets, LOL nobody replaces square feet.


Oh! I just noticed you said tongue and groove. Well I left the paragraph above for the benfit of other readers, but if you have T&G that does change things a bit. Is the T&G visible from the inside? Is the t&g 1" (3/4" actual) or 2" (1 1/2" actual)? If it's 3/4" actual and acts also as your ceiling Please make sure they use short 3/4" or 7/8" nails or else some tips will be visible through the ceiling. If it's 2" just make sure they are aware before starting since they may nail framing nails through the roof deck at safety supports. This would look terrible and cause damage from the inside.

next you will likely want ice and water shield. i am not sure where you are located. Minimum code states that the ice shield start at the gutter line and extend past the exterior "warm wall" at least 24". If your over hang is more than 12" you would not be to code with 3' of ice shield. Most guys only install minimum code roofs. I also install ice shield in my valleys and pre-flash all areas such as chimneys, skylights and where the roof meets the walls with ice shield. It's very cheap insurance. If you are in the South your code may be different.

Then comes the felt paper. Some storm chasers will want to reuse your old felt. Promptly kick them in the butt. I personally don't even use the minimum code 15#, I prefer the newer fiberglass reinforced felt paper or 30# premium asphalt saturated felt paper. Ask yourself if you want a minimum code roof?

You would want a good quality shingle. I don't want to name names but there is one that comes to mind which is incredibly cheap, but good luck if you ever have a warranty claim. do some research there are good brands of shingle and bad brands of shingles out there. Keep in mind the very best shingle is useless if not properly installed so what's more important is that the roofer is skilled and actually cares about your property.

Ventilation ventilation ventilation. I can not say enough about ventilation. That is a topic for 100 other threads. If your house is 50 years old it probably doesn't meet today's current building code. Make sure the roofer doesn't just replace the existing but does something to IMPROVE the ventilation, and keep in mind there are no one size fits all ventilation solutions. Ventilation is a science that is unique to the architecture of each structure.

Flashings, if you don't replace the flashings, why bother replacing the roof? If you can't tell by now the roof is a system. The flashings are metals installed at the critical areas. Again another topic I can talk about for hours. I will say that flashing technique is something lacking in alot of roofing companies since the housing boom bred speed over quality. Alot of guys install what I call cheap temporary flashings.

Cleanup. We personally pride ourselves on the clean up. We will leave your yard as clean or cleaner than it was when we started. If you ask your neighbors about the #1 complaint about their roofer it's usually clean up. Make sure they use a magnet on wheels to pick up any stray nails.
 
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Old 06-21-11, 02:10 PM
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looking for advice on roof replacement

That is very good advice. How do we get roofing contractors to put this in their contracts?
Many talk about what they are going to do and how much better they are than the competition bacause they do all this. None of it do I see detailed on the contract.
NRCA and NTRCA all state that homeowners should get a detailed written description of the product and process along with the warranty that applies.
5 contracts and nothing so far about warranty or details of the roofing products/process that will be used to replace our roof. :NO NO NO:
 
 

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