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Flat roof torch applied seam help

Flat roof torch applied seam help

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07-08-11, 07:16 PM

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cyber-junkie

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Flat roof torch applied seam help

I have a flat roof on my home, it has the torch applied roll material, not very old and in good condition, est. 10 more years+, when bought it had the ends cemented, not torched like it should have been, I had them torched down, and the seams were torched to the "industry standard" of no more than a little bleed out and now in two places a spot on a seam has poped or let loose, they were hard to find, had to take a knife blade to find where, both times it did damage to the ceiling inside, the hot temp. from the Fla. sun then we get cold showers and the roofer said it was the expansion/contraction that can be one of the reasons this happens....what can be done to stop this? Can a little bead or line of roofing cement be applied to all the seams?

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07-12-11, 02:47 PM

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cyber-junkie

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I had a roofer recommend the "elastomeric" roof coating...others say don't, can anyone that has experience give their opinion?

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Roofing, Gutters and All Waterproofing Anywhere
Oven Attic!

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cbr549 on Jun 20, 2011

I have a heat buildup problem in my attic. My attic has under eave vents and ridge vent with two gable vents. The house was bought new and it was built this way. It is my understanding that the gable vents could be my problem. I don’t know? I have checked all under eave vents to make sure they are clear, which they are. I am considering electric gable vent fan installation to move some of this heated air out. Any input is appreciated.Read More
Roofing, Gutters and All Waterproofing Anywhere
Can you dig it??? Foundation Draining/Waterproofing

J

jgedwards3 on Jul 17, 2011

Hello. I need some guidance. Any thoughts, suggestions or experiences would be greatly appreciated. Here are the details... We bought our house in June of 2007. It was built in 1995, so it was 12 years old. It's a brick ranch on a poured foundation with a finished basement. The home is located in Union Kentucky where the soil is mostly clay. The lot is mostly flat, but slopes off slightly in the rear toward the woods. When we bought the house, the home inspector noted that the brick overhung the foundation in the rear by as much as 1.5 inches. The foundation seemed to bow in the center at the rear of the house and on the left side. He also noted that the soil was graded toward the foundation slightly and suggested that I slope it away from the house. He suggested that they brick overhang was probably just from some settling and not a major issue. So, compared to the other houses we had seen, this was the one for us. We bought it. The next spring/summer when we started to get more rain, I noticed leakage along the back wall in the finished basement and along the right side wall in the basement bathroom. I added a few inches of soil to try to increase the grade, made sure the gutters were clean and also had the patio lifted (it had sloped back toward the foundation of the house). We didn't have any leakage problems for almost two years, but when we went to paint the basement, I noticed that the drywall was separating and a large bump could be seen near the ceiling next to a small window in the rear wall of the basement. I cut away the drywall and could see that the wall was pushing the stud inward at the top. This told me that the wall is obviously still moving. We also noticed that the leaking started again in both places with all the rain we've had this season. Here's another interesting thing I've noticed. 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