I have a very unique situation where I have what is called a "Yankee" or "Dutch" gutter. What it is is a gutter which is part of the roof, with a lip at the end, the actual gutter has a plywood roof deck underneath it, then galvanized flashing about 20" wide across the entire bottom all the way up to the lip, then a roofing membrane and granules. Here is a picture of it. [IMG]http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/gutter/P1000992-1.jpg[/IMG] Here is a sketch of the gutter cross section. [IMG]http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/gutter/gutterconfig.jpg[/IMG] One problem I have is the gutter is quite flat longitudinally, so when it rains it sometimes pond water, especially if fallen leaves collects in the gutter. The ponding and the sun over time causes the membrane to blister and crack. I asked a few roofer to come and propose a solution. (1) One roofer says to just paint the new high tech NASA invented elastomeric roof paint over the gutter and be done with it. I am not liking this solution. I doubt a coat of elastic paint will help with the situation, especially if he is applying it over the blistering membrane. (2) Another roofer says to just clean up the gutter, and put new tar and new membrane over the length of the gutter, and that should be good for another five years. Five years later I will have the same situation, at that time I can decided on a more permanent solution, or do the same and get another five years. Right now I am thinking to go with this option. (3) A third roofer says he can solve my problem by creating a gutter with a better slope. He would use some combinations of 2x6, plywood and insulation foam, and roofing felt in some combination, cutting the wood in a taper, and line the new wood into the gutter, then put the new membrane over it and tie it into the existing gutter, and may have to remove one row of tiles for the tie in. In my mind, I think it is a good idea to create a slightly steeper slope along the gutter, and it probably will drain better. However, I am a little scared of the idea of using 2x wood and felt and whatever to create a taper bottom, I wonder if he can truly cut a section 30' long tapering at a straight angle, and I am not liking the idea of putting wood over existing membrane that is sitting over metal flashing and the plywood roof deck. I assume to secure the new wood he would have to screw or nail through the existing gutter flashing and roof deck. Then the new membrane would sit over wood. This sound like a real hodge podge. Right now I am thinking option 2. Unless someone can think of a way to make option 3 really work. Thoughts?

I have a problem with water seaping in to the walls of my bedroom on my home's 2nd floor. The walls have mold and there is some moisture in the corner by the floor- and exposed peice of insulation is wet. It is isolated in one small corner of the bedroom in about a 2 x 2 ft area. I figured it must be from a roof leak so had a roofer in to take a look. On the one hand he tells me roof is in great shape and will last another 7 years as no missing shingles and all in great shape. On the other hand he tells me probably 80% chance problem is caused by roof and recommends new part of the roof by the problem, waterprof membrance and cat walks and install metal drip edge. I am skeptical. Do I need this done if roof looks grreat to him- even though he has hunch roof is the problem. If not from the roof- not sure where water would be coming in from? Any help or advice please?