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Gutter Hanger Placement - attachment point on back of gutter

Gutter Hanger Placement - attachment point on back of gutter

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  #1  
Old 07-27-12, 09:11 PM
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Gutter Hanger Placement - attachment point on back of gutter

I've sent an email to the distributor, but I thought maybe someone here might have an opinion.

The hanger: Raytec Hangtite (no clip)
Hangtite & Hangfast Information

Their photo seems to show the bracket screwing directly into the gutter rib on the back wall.
Their photo:
http://www.gutterworks.com/images/hang-t-g.jpg

I don't think my gutters have enough of a margin above the rib - concerned about it ripping loose at the top.

So I took these photos:

1 - Hanger Below Rib:

Name:  belowRib-7-27-12.jpg
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Size:  31.0 KB

2 - Hanger Flush with Top of Gutter:

Name:  flush-7-27-12.jpg
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Size:  31.5 KB

3 - Hanger Aligned with Rib:

Name:  ribCentered-7-27-12.jpg
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Size:  30.8 KB

I'm concerned that #3 may be prone to ripping loose.

So, I'm tending to think that #2 is my best option??


thanks

(And yes, I made the photos and created the graphics layout - not bad for an amateur eh?)
 
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  #2  
Old 07-27-12, 09:36 PM
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#2 looks good to me. You will definitely want to use longer screws than what is shown in their illustration. yes... excellent pics!
 
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Old 07-29-12, 07:13 AM
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More info. I would not use that type hanger anyway. All your pressure is on the back of the gutter. Could you consider something like this, which will engage longer screws as XSleeper indicated?

Attachment 2276
 
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Old 07-29-12, 09:50 AM
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Thanks Chandler.

The photo you provided shows two hanger systems:
1 - one using ferrules (similar to this: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg )

2 - combined with another hidden hanger (slightly different design than my "Hangtite" hangers).

I'm not sure which hanger you were referring to, but my impression is that installers are getting away from the ferrule.
My garage used the ferrule approach with spikes which over the years pulled out of fascia. I think even ferrules with screws do not offer the same strength as a hidden hanger, plus you've go holes on the front of your gutters where the ferrule screws enter.

Xsleeper is of course right, the screws shown in the demo ( http://www.gutterworks.com/images/hang-t-g.jpg ) are ridiculously too short, but I think that was just a photo to show "where" the hanger would attach (without having a long screw sticking out the back). There's no reason not to use a longer screw in actual application.

For my hidden Hangtite hangers - I've purchased a bulk of 1 1/2" zinc coated "metal-to-wood" screws with enamel painted hex heads w/neoprene washers.

Raytec put together a test of hidden hanger strength. Of course you always have to be leery of a company's bias; none the less, I have these (sitting in a box) and I think they "look" like they are going to do the job:
"The Raytec Hangtite™ hidden hanger hold up to 297 lbs!"
Hidden Hangers

In terms of strength - strap hangers are probably the best, but I think the Hangtite hidden hangers will do the job. Am I going down the wrong road?
 
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Old 07-29-12, 02:01 PM
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The example was a poor one, but it is showing replacing the spikes and ferrules with the offset brackets. Of course since the spikes and ferrules are already there, it helps to reinstall them with epoxy if possible to keep them from backing out, and using the invisible brackets to hold the guttering.
IMO, Hangfast looks to have better support. Physics tells me the fulcrum of the Hangtite is too far toward the house.
 
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Old 07-30-12, 11:14 AM
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Will use method #2

I received a prompt reply from the distributor ( gutterworks.com ) regarding my question about positioning of hanger at back of gutter.

He suggested either screw directly into rib or flush with top:

There isn't enough margin at top so I've decided to go with the flush method:

2 - Hanger Flush with Top of Gutter:

Name:  flush-7-27-12.jpg
Views: 2591
Size:  31.5 KB
 
  #7  
Old 07-30-12, 11:48 AM
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Chandler, thanks for your skepticism (I agree the hidden hangers in your photo do seem more effective); caused me to take yet a closer look at my plan.

Since I already have the hangers, it made sense to me to give them a chance before rejecting them.

As mentioned Raytec, the manufacturer claims to have done some testing:

Hidden Hangers

But, since I've spent some time in the "show me state" of Missouri, I decided to do my own little informal test.

I took a short section of my aluminum gutters (one I've set aside for practice, etc) and measured for three brackets, 18" apart. I attached them to my garage fascia with my 1 1/2" screws and Hangtite hangers.
Then I grabbed a hold of the gutter and hung there for 5 or 10 seconds. Then I moved my hands to different spots and repeated the experiment. The Hangtite hangers passed my test.

The manufacturer claims the hangers will hold up to 297 lbs. I don't know about that, but I proved to myself they will hold at least 160 lbs.

I'm glad your post prompted my test Chandler because I learned, in addition to the above, two more important things:

1 - It is easy, especially with wood threads, to strip out if I'm not careful.
2 - Although the screws are designed to pierce metal, they of course, pull the metal toward the driver - resulting in a gap between fascia and gutter. If the wood were harder, that might not be such a problem to cinch/close up that gap without stripping the hole in the wood, but cedar doesn't have that kind of hardness . So, I will measure and pre-drill the gutter back for hanger screws. This will also make installing less of a fight (important, since I will be installing these solo; just as with the tear off and shingling of my roof).
 
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