Foundation Brick wall leaking into crawl space,HELP !

Reply

  #1  
Old 04-05-13, 08:31 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Foundation Brick wall leaking into crawl space,HELP !

Hi everyone, I'm new to this site and have a foundation question.Let tell you about the location of my home and construction , My house is located in Northwest Fl. and it's of a brick construction with a walk in crawl space for the most part . The house sets on piers with independent footings for the foundation walls.

Here's my problem, where the brick sets on the footings for the foundation wall I'm getting rain water run off in my crawl space I can actually see the water come in when I'm in the crawl space .Here's what I've done so far, I've dug out and exposed about 10' of the footings and ran the length of it with hydraulic cement, then capped that with masonry cement and finally put two coats of roofing cement with membrane on the wall and footings meet , I'm still getting water running into the crawl space.How do I solve this problem ? I haven't sealed anything on the inside as of yet only because the problem is coming from the outside . I'll try to post pictures .Thank you for replies in advance !
 
Attached Images   
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 04-05-13, 07:24 PM
Temporarily Suspended
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 10,986
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
You would have been better off w/ a membrane, that comes on a roll
 
  #3  
Old 04-05-13, 09:33 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thank you for your reply Pulpo. I couldn't find any, not even at the big box stores . I'm thinking of using vapor barrier along with rubber membrane shower pan material.
 

Last edited by greatpapasmurf; 04-05-13 at 09:34 PM. Reason: Need to add a word.
  #4  
Old 04-05-13, 09:49 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 23,887
Received 302 Votes on 275 Posts
I've read this several times and can't wrap my head around your wall construction. Could you provide some wider angle pictures of the house... along with some pictures of these piers? And maybe the crawlspace and the location where you see the water coming in. Is it everywhere, or just one wall, or what?

We don't have pier construction here so I'm having trouble picturing it.

I guess I'm also wondering if this is a runoff problem (poor grade around the house, overflowing gutters at valleys, etc) or if it's a brick problem (how old is the house, are there weep wicks or weep holes?) Or maybe some leak at the soffit/eves that is directing water behind the brick.
 
  #5  
Old 04-06-13, 05:21 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 46,519
Received 168 Votes on 149 Posts
I'm not surprised you can't find the membrane since fla doesn't have basements and most homes are built on slabs. Since you have seen the water enter the crawlspace, can't you eyeball or measure and find that spot on the exterior? Is there concrete block behind the brick or is it more of an underpinning?
 
  #6  
Old 04-06-13, 05:22 AM
Temporarily Suspended
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 10,986
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
You won't find that at a big box store. Try a building supply.
 
  #7  
Old 04-06-13, 07:57 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks for your reply Xsleeper, I'll post more pictures this afternoon . What I'm calling piers may also called columns made of cinder block. The house was built in 1985 . The water is coming in two different areas around the house the front and side.The front runs down my sidewalk to the front door into the planter area.I guess I'll have to put an area drain in there ? The ground slopes down hill.The water coming in seems to be where the brick sets on top of the footings at the mortar joint.I'll post more pictures for you. Thanks again .
 
  #8  
Old 04-06-13, 08:03 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Hi Marksr, Thanks for your reply, In this area where I'm speaking of looks like it's just stacked brick,above that at floor level I would think it's underpinned.But in the front of the house yes there is concrete block behind the brick.Yes I did measure it and thought I had the spot but apparently I was off the mark. I'll be posting more pictures .Thanks again .
 
  #9  
Old 04-06-13, 03:49 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
The first picture is of where the water is coming into the crawl space, The second one is what I'm calling piers and the last one is just a wide picture of the area in question. Thank you for all of replies.
 
Attached Images    
  #10  
Old 04-06-13, 04:25 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 23,887
Received 302 Votes on 275 Posts
Now those pictures help!!!

I'd probably go down there with a rotary hammer and a chisel and chip off all the crap along the footing, where the first course of brick starts. Then take a grinder and a diamond wheel and clean the mortar joint where the brick meets the footing. Dust this off, blow it clean with some air. Then mix up some mortar mix, sweeten it with some additional portland cement, and tuck point those bricks at the base of the footing, and tool the joint- striking it with a hollow key- until it's smooth. (the interior side of your brick hasn't really been struck, the way it looks, which might make it a little more prone to leaks... excess mortar was cleaned off with a trowel but it doesn't look struck and the lack of tooling makes it a little more weak and crumbly than if it had been struck, and increases the possibility of voids in the mortar.

To me, doing this on the inside first makes more sense, because number one, you don't have to dig... (thats a big one) you don't need to tar, it looks like you have easy access down there, and you can see if it helps for probably $10 in materials.

I assume that the brick is a double brick wall in the crawlspace area? (check wall thickness at a window or door opening in the crawlspace) If so, it's also possible that water is somehow entering the wall BETWEEN the layers of brick- perhaps at a penetration (electrical box, AC pipes, etc) or at the soffit, or even the roof. This could be occurring anywhere above the leak, travelling down the wall, and only finally entering the crawlspace once it reaches the footing. Figuring that out would be difficult without removing a brick or 2 at/above the leak.

The biggest problem with this house that i see... WHERE THE HECK ARE THE GUTTERS?

LOL, sorry I got a little excited there. Water coming off the roof really needs to be directed as far away from the house as possible by the gutters and downspouts. So if there aren't any, that would be a good suggestion.
 
  #11  
Old 04-06-13, 05:27 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Sounds like a great plan you laid out!!! A lot of good points you've made ! Your correct in saying that water could be coming in at higher levels of the wall at the mortar joints,penetrations. I just saw that the other day. Well as far as the gutters go we only have them out front.The wife and I just talked about that today and we're definitely going to have them installed . All of that crap on top of the footing of the first course is where I think someone in the past tried to seal up the leak there at some point., It's really hollow I chipped some of it away with a cold chisel .

As far as thickness in the brick I only see single bricks at the door ways, more so at the crawl space doors .

The grinder is no problem my son has one. Can the other tools be purchased at the big box store ?

Thank you , I really appreciate all of your help,advice and knowledge !!!!
 
  #12  
Old 04-06-13, 07:40 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 23,887
Received 302 Votes on 275 Posts
You might want a 4 1/2" cup grinder... its an attachment for the grinder that's about $50. A 4 1/2" serrated or continuous rim diamond wheel is about $30. Both will make a lot of dust. It makes less dust when you simply chip off the concrete... and for that you could use a 7/8" rotary hammer. Bosch is a good brand. A 1 1/2" wide chipping chisel might be the tool you want for most of the chipping.

But if you didn't want to spend a lot of money you could also do it with a cold chisel and a hammer. It's just not as fun. You might want a long narrow repointing trowel- it works well for packing mortar back into the joints. They will also have the concave jointer for striking the joints.
 
  #13  
Old 04-07-13, 05:35 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
It sounds like a plan !

I need to get an estimate on the gutters,that will most likely stop about 90% of the water from coming in And tuck point the mortar joints.

I would guess the moisture is what's causing the insulation to start sagging . So I might want to replace some of that as well when completed.

Thanks a ton again !! I'll posts pictures when completed.
 
  #14  
Old 04-10-13, 10:22 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
First time tuck pointing

First time I've done tuck pointing,Hasn't had time to dry yet still wet when photo was taken, As luck would have it we're expecting 2" of rain tomorrow will see what happens !
 
Attached Images  
  #15  
Old 04-11-13, 05:29 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 46,519
Received 168 Votes on 149 Posts
Sounds like a test session hope you pass
 
  #16  
Old 04-11-13, 06:14 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I sure hope so !!! Were coming into rainy and hurricane season !
 
  #17  
Old 04-14-13, 06:10 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Past the rain test.

Well after a couple days of heavy rain everything is dry where I made the repairs .I have one more small area to do the same,Then I'll have a dry crawl space, I hope ?!

But most of all I wanted to thank everyone who helped me in solving my problem !
 
  #18  
Old 04-14-13, 06:45 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 23,887
Received 302 Votes on 275 Posts
That's pretty awesome, good job! And thanks for letting us know how things turned out.
 
  #19  
Old 04-15-13, 04:56 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 46,519
Received 168 Votes on 149 Posts
Glad to hear it, guess you passed

It would still be a good idea to install gutters and pipe them away from the house. Should stop the water from searching for any other weak spots to enter
 
  #20  
Old 04-15-13, 09:32 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Your welcome Xsleeper.Now I can replace some insulation and vapor barrier. I may have a couple questions on that topic.
 
  #21  
Old 04-15-13, 09:35 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I'm calling someone to come out to give me an estimate ,marksr.
 
  #22  
Old 04-15-13, 09:40 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Quick question

Would all that moisture that was running into the crawl space cause the house to be colder in the winter ?
 
  #23  
Old 04-15-13, 12:32 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 46,519
Received 168 Votes on 149 Posts
I don't know for sure but I don't think it would have much of an effect if the floor [crawlspace ceiling] is insulated. Moisture under the house is one of the prime ingredients for mold but you've taken care of the water
 
  #24  
Old 04-15-13, 02:49 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks marksr . The under side of the floor is insulated.Maybe upgrading the insulation,I have an R11 in there right now I want to go with an R16.looking at it I think when they installed the insulation 30 years ago they installed it wrong the facing is on the bottom side shouldn't be against the floor acting as a moisture barrier ? Thanks for your reply.
 
  #25  
Old 04-16-13, 03:13 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 46,519
Received 168 Votes on 149 Posts
The vapor barrier always goes toward the living space. Thicker insulation might help. R-19 is the norm for floors in tenn. I've lived in both the panhandle and central fla but every house [excluding MHs] was on a concrete slab. I was a little surprised when I saw your pic showing a decent height in the crawlspace.
 
  #26  
Old 04-16-13, 11:54 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
The height in the crawl space isn't that bad, you can at least move around and work. I had two other homes in Fort Lauderdale both were on a slab,I don't know if I would by another one with a crawl space of basement.I think I'll change it out to the R-19. Thanks again for all your help !
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: