Advice on door install

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Old 09-16-13, 10:58 PM
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Advice on door install

OK, so I have done my research. I keep finding differing opinions on a few things. I'd like to lay out my situation and get some advice from everyone who frequents this forum. I would like to apologize a head of time for a possibly LONG post but I want to provide as much detail as possible.

My house has an entry door (36" w/ 2 sidelights). It's more of a visual door than a functional door. In the spring I noticed some rot on the door (it is 15 yrs old) that worried me so over the summer we budgeted to replace it. We now have a replacement door on order but over the summer with the (constant) driving rain we started to get a musty smell in the basement. I'll be honest I thought we were replacing the door ahead of the curb but apparently not. I found damage to the sheathing, ledger plates, the ends of the floor joist (but not too bad) and the subfloor. By this point I had already ordered a new door and paid for installation (through a BB store).

My problem, I didn't trust the BB contractor to replace the rot. I figured it could go 2 ways, either I get a revised quote for who knows how much to fix the structure OR the person doing the job would push forward and plop a brand new expensive fiberglass door on all that rot.

So, long story short, my father decided to step in and as an early birthday gift to me help me repair the damage. I'm not all thumbs by any means but much of the repair REALLY was beyond my comfort zone.

We cut out the house wrap, sheathing, and ledger board back to wood that was solid. We cut back the subfloor under the door as well and replaced it. We even jacked the house to fix the structure around the door. Overall, one side had sunk 1/2" but we got it back to ~ where it should be.

As I write this I'm sitting with plywood over my door opening but the structure is now completely fixed.

So, again sorry, if you're still with me, I now have a door coming in this week. I still need to add back Tyvek (which a friend graciously provided) and I'd like to add Grace Ice & Water shield. around the door (which my father provided). I also bought a drip edge and sill pan.

My plan is to install the I&W shield from bottom up (overlapping) with a heat gun. I want to keep the I&W under the tyvak and wrap the tyvek into the door jams (as it was previously). The newly installed Tyvek (at the bottom of the door) will be tucked under the tyvek above it and siliconed/taped.

I also have a sill pan which I plan on applying onto of the tyvek wrapped onto the door jam. I want the water to divert down onto the tyvek with the I&W shield as a backup if water infiltrates the tyvek layer. I also plan on having a metal drip edge installed above the entire length of the door and sidelights with the top tyvek overlapping the drip edge.

I'm not saying this door will never leak again... but I want to make sure that my flashing, wrap and sheathing methods make sure the structure is protected if it does.

Do any of you see fault in my plan? Any comments or ideas? Again, sorry for the long post... I really wanted to be as descriptive as possible since I don't have pics to provide at the moment.

Thanks
 

Last edited by Kris Michaud; 09-16-13 at 11:03 PM. Reason: grammar errors
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Old 09-17-13, 08:01 AM
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That top piece is called Z molding.
Sounds like a good plan.
Really would help if you can post a picture of your opening to see why this rotted out in the first place.
Most of the time it's because someone did not build the stoop, deck, patio, at least 6" below the threshold and there's no roof over that area.
That one mistake cost home owners millions of dollars a year in home repairs.
 
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Old 09-17-13, 05:38 PM
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Yeah, I have preformed concrete steps that sit under the door. They aren't / weren't attached to the house. The steps definitely aren't 6" below the door. The steps also settled over time with a pitch toward the house instead of away. I had to pay a company to move the stairs just to have the clearance I needed to fix all the rot. I plan on putting a small run of gutters over the door and steps to help with the problem. I also plan on having the company pitch the steps away from the house when they reset them.

The real problem is the wood on the side light failed and allowed water to wick between the door and the sidelight and down to the sill pan area. The damage was not evident from the inside of the door. The rot was only visible when I investigated further from the basement under the door. Still, even the visible rot did no justice to what we found when we started to demo around the door.

Thanks for the feedback. I'm just a little sensitive about the door right now considering all the structural damage that was done. I want to make sure I don't screw up the flashing and end up in the same boat.
 
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Old 09-17-13, 05:51 PM
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Here are two photos to give an idea where it leaked and the damage caused
 
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Old 09-17-13, 07:13 PM
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Are you going to pull the siding from around the door? Is there a window above the door?
 
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Old 09-17-13, 07:41 PM
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Yes siding will get pulled away from the door. I want to use I&W shield underneath, on both sides, and the top. The J-channel will be replaced at the same time (blackened with mold from old silicone and looks awful). There is no window above the door.
 
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Old 09-18-13, 10:38 PM
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One question I do have. Since I plan on using I&W shield should I lip cut it flush with the level of the outside plywood sheathing OR wrap it around onto the sill area. I'm worried the extra thickness of wrapping the I&W around the bottom of the sill will pitch the sill pan up near the outside and cause water to poll near the inside. I'm thinking the better move is to cut the I&W to the same level as the sub floor where the door will sit and overlap the tyvek over the I&W shield and staple the tyvek to the bottom of the sill. Then I want to place the sill pan over it all to divert the water down the tyvek. This would mean the I&W would not fold onto the sill. Thoughts?
 
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Old 09-19-13, 08:59 PM
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I use a wrap and lay it through the sill area on top of the tyvek and up the sides about 8". Then up the wall area where the brickmold will be. Cut open the tyvek at the top and hold it up till the door is installed. Install the drip edge then a layer of the wrap then lay the tyvek back over the wrap. Always over lap and work from the bottom up.
 
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Old 09-21-13, 10:31 PM
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Thanks. I understand the bottom-up overlap method for flashing and that is my plan. I think your description of how you flash the bottom of the sill is similar to my end result. The only difference would be that the sill pan wouldn't go up the jams 8". I guess I could use the I&W shield the add the extra length to the jams and build it from the bottom up. Thanks, you definitely made me feel better about my plans to flash the door. Door is being delivered tomorrow and installed Tuesday. I already talked the installer and he said he was willing to help me install the sill pan, z-channel drip edge, I&W shield and replace the cut out tyvek. These are all things I want done and the installer wasn't going to do. From his standpoint most of the job is already done since the rot is fixed and the door is out.

To be fair, I wanted to do the install but the wife insisted I hire someone to do it. This has been such a debacle I think going forward she will give me a little credit and trust me to do the job next time.
 
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