My band-aid roof needs to go.

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Old 10-31-13, 11:58 AM
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My band-aid roof needs to go.

Here is the long story short. I have an add-on room that was poorly constructed by a previous owner 30 years ago. They turned the patio, which used 8' galvanized steel roof panels, into an enclosed climate controlled room. Insulated the ceiling, the walls, everything. In doing so the housing code considered it as physical square footage to the house. Now that I have ownership, all the problems come crashing down on me. If I don't fix the room it diminishes the value of my house significantly. It had almost as many leaks as it does years on it. I spent around $200 in roofing tar on the roof and patched everything. So I thought, but that's another story.

Essentially, i've come about 95% of the way to being leak free in that room. With this being said, I want to put on a new roof on top of the existing one. Yea I know: "why when you've done the patch work." Half the reason is because the wife wanted an extra "layer" of protection and the other half because this is simply a band-aid job. It will leak again and I don't want to put up brand new drywall and have it leaking on me again.

So, here is my dilemma. I was planning on constructing a wood frame on top of the existing roof and then placing the new roof, Corrugated Cellulose Asphalt Roof Panels (Shop Ondura 79-in x 48-in Gray Corrugated Cellulose Asphalt Roof Panel at Lowes.com), on top of it. But i've been thinking... Do I really need to build a wood frame for it? Is the extra inch or two spacing between the existing roof and the new one really needed?
 
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Old 10-31-13, 12:54 PM
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Need a picture of what you have.
No way would I be building something over what you already have.
Is your wife a roofer or builder by chance?
If not there's got to be a better way of doing this then what's been suggested.
 
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Old 10-31-13, 01:47 PM
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Well, I probably haven't given enough information. Let me explain everything about the room.

The steel roof when constructed was not left as a sheet of metal with no support. I apologize, I didn't clarify. The ceiling has been reinforced with structural steel studs every 38" with three 6" load bearing beams, one for each exterior wall and one going down the middle. The exterior walls are also being steel framed. The structure itself can hold over 1000lbs safely, but my plans (in order for the ceiling to be 6" thick all around) to add additional structural steal studs going cross sectioned and braced into the brick siding, cemented in, then being braced into the metal frame. However, an 8-foot, 3-1/2-inch metal stud, for instance, may support over 2,000 pounds, while a 16-foot stud of the same width will support as little as 400 pounds. But taller studs may need to be spaced more closely to offer the same stability to a structure. So what I will be doing is the additional studs will be 16" apart instead of 24". This should assist in the increase of load capacity.

Once the extra support is put in place the load will safely hold over 2000lbs. My current plan by adding the wood frame along with the new roof would add approx. 350lbs spread across a 250 sq ft surface leaving a surface weight of 1.4lbs per sq foot. With 12 added steel studs and 9 sheets of drywall the total load on the structure will be 836lbs which should be safe for the structure to hold.

So this leads to my next issue. With the current roof in place, being more work removing then replacing, couldn't I simply put the new roof over the existing? Or do I really need to build the wooden frame?
 

Last edited by Thomas Cheevers; 10-31-13 at 02:03 PM.
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Old 10-31-13, 03:34 PM
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I'm not exactly sure why you think you need a wooden frame between the new panels and the existing roof. Leaving an air gap will just provide water a place to go and flow, when it eventually finds its way through the panels. I'd also think long and hard before using this type of panel in your warm climate--some of the product reviews indicate they tend to get soft or even crumble as they age.

If it were my choice, the roof would either get a rubber membrane system or a hot, wet-mop system.
 
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Old 10-31-13, 08:39 PM
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Hey Bridge, thanks for responding. Yea the wood frame was a suggestion if a contract roofer came out to put metal panels on an existing shingle roof. I just didn't see the purpose though.

You know, I did see that review. But I noticed they were from New Hampshire. I'm originally from Boston, MA and I know what the climate up there is like. I can see how this could crumble and break apart with it freezing and thawing constantly. The other bad review, that was just bad delivery. He probably never went to the store to inspect the material before buying it. I made that mistake with Home Depot pressure treated wood when I built my deck and gazebo. Had it delivered and everything. Within 3 months 1/4 of it was warped including support beams. The materials at my current Lowes are good and i'll be there when I pick them up to inspect them to make sure they are strong and durable. Just sounds like he got a defective product. Yet you also see people from Rhode Island and Pennsylvania who installed it and it worked perfectly fine. Makes me think the first guy didn't do something right when he installed it.

For a rubber membrane, maybe if the roof didn't already have channels like the replacement one has then perhaps I would consider it. It's expensive though.
 
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