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Tieing a cold application tar roof into an existing shingle roof.

Tieing a cold application tar roof into an existing shingle roof.

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Old 12-15-13, 10:06 AM
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Tieing a cold application tar roof into an existing shingle roof.

I am working on an add on patio roof. This roof has been done numerous times and leaked everytime. The slope is at most a 1/12 after I raised it 3 1/2" to provide more slope and to bring it up to the level of the shingle roof coming off the house. At some point someone put black jack or something of that nature under the edge of the shingles thinking that would stop the leak which it didn't and it made it virtually impossible to lift up the bottom edge of the shingles with out breaking and cracking them. After putting down the cold app tar and awaplan up to the bottom edge of shingles, which went perfectly fine, I put a 22 gauge sheetmetal flashing up under the shingles about 3" and over the awaplan about 9". But with the cracked and broken shingles at the bottom i am worried about water get behind the metal flashing so I put plastic roofing cement along the bottom course of the shingles. It isn't pretty but does anyone think it is going to be effective. We didn't want to repace the shingles at this time so to stop the leaks along the top edge of this little 2 square roof this is all i could think of to do.
 
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Old 12-15-13, 11:58 AM
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no advice on this project? I know the only way to fix it correctly is to reroof the entire house so as to tie the small roof in with the big one. But that is not an option. so without having to replace a whole bunch of shingles will this work.
 
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Old 12-15-13, 12:07 PM
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Welcome to the forums!

Hard to say without a pic or two - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
 
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Old 12-17-13, 07:47 AM
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Here are pics of the roof where the patio deck meets the shingle roof. As I said the metal flashing is about 3 inches under the edge of the shingles and on the side is 4 inches under the awaplan roof. On the top edge it comes down 9 inches over the top of the awaplan. I did the plastic roofing cement because along the top it has leaked since this addition was built and the shingles cracked when I lifted them to get the metal underneath and because there is so little slope I didn't want water backing up under the metal. It isn't pretty but will it be effective.
 
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Old 12-17-13, 07:51 AM
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I also didn't want to start trying to lift shingles any higher up the roof because they are brittle and with a valley right there I am worried that instead of fixing the problem I will be creating a bigger potential for leaks farther up the shingle roof.
 
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Old 12-17-13, 08:30 AM
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I think it will be ok [but I'm not a roofer] time will tell
 
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Old 12-17-13, 10:18 AM
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If you accept that your repair will require more on-going maintenance than a properly installed roof will, then if there are no leaks you should be OK for awhile. Just don't go thinking you can stop worrying about it for a few years. Count on having to get up there and re-patch occasionally.

What can happen when there is too much patching material built up in certain areas of a roof is water can get trapped by it, accumulate in the area, and force its way under shingles. This is why sometimes roofs that are repaired this way leak again in the same area or spring new leaks. When pros do re-roofs they are actually pretty stingey with tars, caulks, and cements. They minimize it to sealing certain areas against wind-driven rain and snow, not piling it up over areas that get direct water intrusion.
 
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Old 12-17-13, 11:49 AM
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We are aware that this is not a permanent fix and that the right way would have been to reroof the entire house so as to tie this all together properly. But as I stated this was not financially viable. The whole house will get a reroof in a year or two at which time it will get a proper fix. And I am aware of the problem of to much tar built up can cause the water to pool. I did make these areas as smooth as possible but again without tearing up alot of shingles what else could i have done.
 
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Old 12-18-13, 03:44 AM
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WOW, is that ugly but as long as it faces a neighbor's house, its not that bad here's a thought - hlm5000 OR metal roofing compound ( can't remember the stuff's brand name but its made in charleston, sc, & avail thru abc supply ),,, both are UV resistant, affordable, & fairly easy to install w/proper masking,,, we also, on occasion, use herculiner but, if budget's a consideration, try the 1st 2 - good luck
 

Last edited by stadry; 12-18-13 at 04:02 AM.
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