I was thinking building a wooden gutter, with treated 2x4's bolted to a treated 2x8 (using 1/4 inch diameter bolts). The gutter would be mounted to a 2x6 fascia board, with one side of the gutter have 1/4 inch diameter bolts (countersunk and covered with putty) going through the 2x4 of the gutter, and 3/8 inch diameter bolts going longways through the 2x8 floor of the gutter, into the bottom of 2x6 fascia (these 3/8 inch bolts would have to be 10 inches). Although this is a relatively easy task, I wonder if the rafter tails can bear the weight of this gutter? For increased stability, I would like to have a "sub fascia" between each rafter (and flush with the rafter tails), so i could bolt the treated 2x6 fascia board to it (counter sunk and covered with putty). However, that doesn't help the rafter tails with supporting the vertical weight, and in fact increases the vertical weight load on the rafter tails. Is it possible to sister the rafter tails on both sides to gain the needed support? Or would this have no overall effect (assume a 18 to 24 inch sister starting from the tail). Since m rafters are 2x6, can I sister them with a more narrow 2x4 to avoid the birdsmouth complication? Or is the birdsmouth joint (along the wall plate) necessary to contribute to weight bearing? Can a bracket be attached to the sheathing (plywood)? Or is plywood inadequate? Is there a way to utilize the vertical weight bearing strength of the wall plate, even though it is 8 inches away from end the of the rafter tails (horizontally) and above the rafter tails (and thus above the fascia)??? ------------------------------- Side note: If the treated lumber is maintained annually with Ready Seal and re-caulked along the 2x4/2x8 seams, can it be trusted as a gutter? Will water seep into the fascia (and beyond)?

I would like to apply new material over an old ashpalt (tar and gravel) roof area before installing a 2" x 6" wood deck for standing/walking. The area is only about 50 square feet. It slopes torward a roof drain positioned at an inside corner. In the same corner, two cast iron drain stacks penetrate the roof. I don't know how many times the area was roofed with asphalt, but I would very much prefer not stripping the area down to the wood roof deck. In particular, I'd like to avoid disturbing the seal that's been achieved around the drain inlet. I have already purchased retrofit rubber boot flashings to install around the two drain pipes once I instal the new membrane. EPDM is available locally, but I understand I need a barrier of some sort between the old asphalt and the new membrane. Is there a separator sheet or other flexible underlayment that will work with my inwardly sloped roof area? If not EPDM, is there some other material that I can install directly over the old asphalt roof (once all the gravel is removed) that is relatively flexible to work with and that will not fail prematurely if I lay a wood deck on top of it? The wood deck won't weigh much, and it will be rare that more than one person stands on it. Will mineral surface roll roofing stand up just fine? It would certainly be more "user friendly" with the existing asphalt substrate. Thanks!!