Looking to Redo My Roof

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  #1  
Old 02-02-14, 03:01 AM
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Looking to Redo My Roof

Me and the girlfriend live in a hand me down trailer. The trailer is from the 70's and falling apart on us. When we got the trailer, one of the issues it already had was a leaky roof that had already caused extensive water damage in a few spots. For a couple months I worked as a roofer so I have a little experience with re-roofing homes. With the help of my girlfriend's brother in law, who is more handy then me, we have tried to fix this roof twice. Due to a tight budget, both attempts were patch jobs. Part of the roofing is not keeping a good hold to the boards. High winds have continuously caused part of the roofing to fold up on top of itself, exposing the roof to rain. Even though twice we have nailed and tarred the roof, it does not hold.

Since I'm expecting a larger then usually tax return this year I'm looking to reinvest into this trailer. Since we will be here for at least several years till we graduate from college I want to ensure this trailer can last us for as long as we need. Also considering down the line when we look to sell it to get a new home.

After trying to fix this roof twice, I'm over it and want to fix it for good regardless of cost. I know that there will be a good amount of boards I'll need to replace. At the time I'm thinking about redoing the whole roof as well as installing new insulation to help with energy bill.

I'm looking for others thoughts on what type of materials I should use for the roof, what insulation I should use etc.

Currently the roof is flat topped, and we live in the south. At this point not sure if I should go with shingles or metal roof. Also, when I'm done if I should tar the roof again or not. I've read a little online about different types of insulation. Yet, not sure what would be best for the roof other then something with a high R rating.
 
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  #2  
Old 02-02-14, 04:54 AM
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Welcome to the forums!

I've lived/worked on a fair number of MHs - all in the southeast so I'm familiar with what you are faced with.

Part of the roofing is not keeping a good hold to the boards
Can you better explain this? Normally a MH roof of that era is a big metal sheet that is only secured to the perimeter. The roof 'truss' system is made from 1x2s with scrap paneling pieces for gussets. What boards do you need to replace? It is normal for the factory metal roof to flutter some in windy conditions.

IMO the best way to fix an old MH roof is to erect a new roof over it. Not all MHs are stout enough to support the new roof structure by there self. In those cases it's best to run 4x4 supports from the ground up to help carry the load. A shingle roof requires a minimum of a 3/12 pitch.

Usually the insulation is best installed between the ceiling and the MH roof although a roof over would allow for extra insulation to be used in the attic space. You'd also want to integrate some ventilation in the attic space which will help to keep the MH cooler in the summer.

sometimes pics can be helpful - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
 
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Old 02-28-14, 05:33 PM
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roof

Having done quite a bit of work on customer's trailers in the past, here is one good and low cost suggestion. I know you said that the cost isn't as much of an issue, but there are a few things you can do and still keep the cost down, and it will still be done correctly.

The cheapest way that still works well is to take 2x4's and nail them along the top of the roof all the way across, Not the peak of the roof, because you need to do this on both sides of the roof.

But what you do is put 3 layers of 2x4's running along the top, then 2 layers running about the middle of the trailer roof, then 1 layer running along the edge on the bottom of the roof. Once you have put the 2x4's there, you can start putting the metal roof on, and because you stepped the 2x4's like this, you will have a pitch. A metal roof doesn't have to have a great pitch in order for water to run, it can even run on a 1 on 12 pitch. (I recommend a greater pitch than that though.) all you do is screw the metal to the 2x4's. As you go, put insulation underneath the metal. Foam sheathing is usually what a contractor will use underneath the metal, and they come in 4x8 sheets. It won't add that much more to the cost, so I would go with that.

Once you have put the sheets across on both sides, you have to put a ridge cap across the top where the gap will be. You can purchase a pre made cap to go across the top. We always have made our own since we have access to the tools, but you will have to buy your own unless you know a sheet metal guy. You do the same thing on the sides of the trailer where the metal ends. I would also finish the gable ends, but if you close those up you will need to make sure to have gable vents on the sides or you will have too much moisture build up on the roof. If you need pictures of what I am talking about, I will try to find you some. Just let me know, I will keep an eye on this thread.
 
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Old 03-01-14, 04:49 AM
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Ted, I wouldn't mind seeing some pics and getting a little more info. If I understand correctly you are having the 2xs on 3' centers??? I wouldn't think that would be close enough to keep the metal roof stiff or allow you to get on the roof later for any maintenance. I've always thought that a roof over on a MH is a good idea!
 
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