Remedies for ridge cap shingles incorrectly installed at rake?
#1
03-10-14, 02:18 PM
Remedies for ridge cap shingles incorrectly installed at rake?
I have a small patio attached to the garage and it has a shingle roof. That roof has ridge cap shingles installed along the roof rake. However these ridge cap shingles seem to have been incorrectly installed and the roof deck becomes wet at the edges, along the rakes.
If I understand correctly, when installing these ridge cap shingles along the rake, the ridge cap shingles need to be interleaved with the regular horizontal shingles, row by row. In other words, as you shingle the roof, you need to install a ridge cap shingle at the rake every time you lay a new row of the regular shingles. That way the ridge cap shingles are interleaved into each shingle row, like step flashing.
But, whoever installed this roof (may have been DIY) seems to have first put down all the horizontal shingles on the roof deck, and then, installed the ridge cap shingles at the rakes as a completely add on layer. As you can imagine, with this layout, any water that makes it between the regular shingles layer and the ridge cap shingle layer eventually finds its way onto the roof’s wood sheathing.
Is there a way to remedy this?
This is a house my parents bought recently, and this roofing was probably done 5-10 years ago. Having been exposed to the hot California sun, the shingles are well glued together.
If I understand correctly, when installing these ridge cap shingles along the rake, the ridge cap shingles need to be interleaved with the regular horizontal shingles, row by row. In other words, as you shingle the roof, you need to install a ridge cap shingle at the rake every time you lay a new row of the regular shingles. That way the ridge cap shingles are interleaved into each shingle row, like step flashing.
But, whoever installed this roof (may have been DIY) seems to have first put down all the horizontal shingles on the roof deck, and then, installed the ridge cap shingles at the rakes as a completely add on layer. As you can imagine, with this layout, any water that makes it between the regular shingles layer and the ridge cap shingle layer eventually finds its way onto the roof’s wood sheathing.
Is there a way to remedy this?
This is a house my parents bought recently, and this roofing was probably done 5-10 years ago. Having been exposed to the hot California sun, the shingles are well glued together.
#2
03-10-14, 02:57 PM
Any way to post pictures of this? It is common to install starter shingles on the rake edge, but there should not be any way for water to infiltrate under the shingles, as they should protrude past the starters. I doubt that they are ridge shingles. If so, they are incorrectly installed. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
#3
03-10-14, 05:06 PM
Group Moderator
I have never in my life heard of installing hip and ridge cap shingles anywhere but on the "hip and ridge". 
If you are using the wrong term and you are really talking about the "hip", the hip and ridge shingles are always installed LAST, after all the shingles are applied. The hip and ridge shingles go on top of the shingles, they do not get "woven" into each course.
If you are using the wrong term and you are really talking about the "hip", the hip and ridge shingles are always installed LAST, after all the shingles are applied. The hip and ridge shingles go on top of the shingles, they do not get "woven" into each course.
#5
03-10-14, 07:33 PM
Group Moderator
Huh. Must be a California thing to make the detail look like Spanish Tile. Never seen that around here!
Well, I have no idea what brand your shingles might be, but you can see the instructions for similar shingles HERE, and they are installed just like any other hip and ridge. (after the shingles, not woven WITH the shingles.)
Well, I have no idea what brand your shingles might be, but you can see the instructions for similar shingles HERE, and they are installed just like any other hip and ridge. (after the shingles, not woven WITH the shingles.)
#6
03-11-14, 03:29 AM
Wow. Me neither. I can see how they catch water, especially driven rain. Shingles are apparently cut flush to rake edge, so any water that enters that space could possibly capillary under the shingles. A little too artsy fartsy for the south.
#7
03-11-14, 05:20 AM
As you can see on the rake going up from left to right there are 16 rows of shingles and only 12 of the cap shingles along the rake, so those are not woven in.
My guess would be a lack of proper flashing on the rake edge before your decorative edge cap was applied.
Bud
My guess would be a lack of proper flashing on the rake edge before your decorative edge cap was applied.
Bud
#9
03-11-14, 11:41 AM
“I can see how they catch water, especially driven rain. Shingles are apparently cut flush to rake edge, so any water that enters that space could possibly capillary under the shingles.”
Yes, that is exactly what I was trying to describe, and that is what must be happening on my installation. There is not enough water seeping through for the roof to leak, but the first foot or two of deck along the rake is damp and water stained. The wet portion widens as you move down the rake, consistent with capillary action along the rake. The decking is not really damaged yet, but as I said, this must be a 5 year old job, rather recent.
That picture I posted comes up at the GAF website. So it should not be that unusual. The installation instructions in XSleeper’s link suggest the same installation, where, as I see it, capillary action would take some water onto the roof deck. Rake flashing might reduce the effect but not completely eliminate it. Capillary action could still wick some water between the regular shingle layer and the flashing, even though water would have to also capillary a few inches further over the flashing to reach the decking.
I suppose I could try to remedy this by sealing the regular shingle/decorative shingle interface with some roof adhesive/filler ? I guess it’s just a porch, I don’t really care about small leaks, I just don’t want the sheathing to rot. It’s not a big roof, about 8’x35’ so the two rakes are only 8’ long.
Yes, that is exactly what I was trying to describe, and that is what must be happening on my installation. There is not enough water seeping through for the roof to leak, but the first foot or two of deck along the rake is damp and water stained. The wet portion widens as you move down the rake, consistent with capillary action along the rake. The decking is not really damaged yet, but as I said, this must be a 5 year old job, rather recent.
That picture I posted comes up at the GAF website. So it should not be that unusual. The installation instructions in XSleeper’s link suggest the same installation, where, as I see it, capillary action would take some water onto the roof deck. Rake flashing might reduce the effect but not completely eliminate it. Capillary action could still wick some water between the regular shingle layer and the flashing, even though water would have to also capillary a few inches further over the flashing to reach the decking.
I suppose I could try to remedy this by sealing the regular shingle/decorative shingle interface with some roof adhesive/filler ? I guess it’s just a porch, I don’t really care about small leaks, I just don’t want the sheathing to rot. It’s not a big roof, about 8’x35’ so the two rakes are only 8’ long.
#10
03-11-14, 12:53 PM
The picture in this link illustrates a capillary break built into the overlap on a metal roof. If you were to add flashing along the edge, creating a lip on the shingle side that provides a small air gap would prevent water from wicking past. Surprised we don't see more of this technique with siding and shingles.
http://www.constructionscience.org/p...ap%20Seams.pdf
Bud
http://www.constructionscience.org/p...ap%20Seams.pdf
Bud
#11
03-11-14, 03:20 PM
Roof
The shingles are installed correctly, there just wasnt' the right amount of flashing put underneath the edge. You just have to take the shingles up that are working as an edge cap, and put the proper flashing, and then recap them. Of course, you have to make sure you know what you are doing when putting the cap back on. If you don't you need to hire someone that does.
Don't just hire someone that is a roofer. You need to go to friends and family that have had similar work done, and then get the name of their roofing contractor. There is a certain way you flash the eves and overhangs when you cap it like that, and not all of them know how.
Don't just hire someone that is a roofer. You need to go to friends and family that have had similar work done, and then get the name of their roofing contractor. There is a certain way you flash the eves and overhangs when you cap it like that, and not all of them know how.
#12
03-11-14, 04:11 PM
“Of course, you have to make sure you know what you are doing when putting the cap back on. If you don't you need to hire someone that does.”
Can this special installation be described in a few words?
Can this special installation be described in a few words?
#14
03-12-14, 08:27 PM
Group Moderator
A good whack under the tar strip with a hammer and prybar usually does it. But I have on occasion actually cut them apart with a reciprocating saw and a 12" blade. LOL Of course, that was only one time - I was doing a repair on a roof where it was absolutely the only thing I could do to get them apart and save them. It was priceless. LOL
