I had some concrete laid in my backyard and the ground wasn't level, so my fence is actually a couple inches higher than my concrete. So the section between my concrete and the bottom of the fence is dirt. As a "fix" the contractor left the wood framing he used to hide the dirt and keep it from falling on the concrete.

The issue now is that my neighbor just got grass put it and when he waters his yard, i get muddy water run-off into my yard. I asked him to cut down the water time thinking maybe he was over watering but I still have issues.



As you can see there is a hole in the wood frame where all the water is coming through. How can i plug that hole up? I was thinking i could just cut out a piece of wood and stick it in there, but imagine water coming through the seams. I need to plug it and then put some sort of sealant/epoxy around all the seams to waterproof them, I just don't know what I need exactly?

any ideas? Thanks

 

Kind of stupid to have the concrete be lower than the neighbor's grade in the first place. At this point you maybe could get some Azek PVC 1x4 and scribe it to the concrete, keeping the top edge running straight with the PVC fencing, and screw that to the inside perimeter of the fence, and caulk it to the cement.

Not a great solution but it's kind of crummy that he left you that way. Leaving the OSB was brilliant... lasts about as long as you can see the contractor's tail lights.

 

Honestly thats a great idea because it solves our other problem of hiding the wood trim because it looks so ugly. at least it will blend in better when the fence.

Anyways sorry but I am very dumb with this kind of stuff...what do you mean by "scribe to the concrete"? For the caulking, any special kind I would be looking for?

 

To scribe something means to cut one edge so as to perfectly match the adjoining surface. In your case, that would be the bottom edge.

To do that, you might set the Azek on the concrete, then raise one end up until the top edge appears straight with the rail of your PVC fencing. There would then probably be a gap underneath the Azek on one side. If that gap is 3/4" wide on the high end (for example) you would take a scrap of wood 3/4" thick and a pencil and then use the 3/4" scrap of wood as a marking gauge... sliding it along the concrete, marking a line along the Azek with the pencil by holding the pencil along the top of the scrap. This will mark the Azek to conform to the irregularities of the concrete. Once you cut the Azek along that line it should fit the contour of the cement and will drop down 3/4" lower than it was sitting when you marked it.

Vulkem is a good sealant to use for caulking to concrete. Loctite S10 would work too. Polyurethanes will be best.

 

Cool thanks for your suggestion and explanation, I appreciate it. If anyone else has any ideas I would love to hear them!