Sealing Aluminum Porch Roof


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Old 08-29-14, 04:26 PM
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Sealing Aluminum Porch Roof

So about 10 or so years ago, an aluminum roofing portion was added onto our house. Half of the back porch was done in screen and half of the back porch was done in aluminum paneling. The cracks between the panels have been leaking pretty much since they have been here. The roof is at a very small angle but it does drain as it is supposed to, just a little bit slower of a flow. The gutters are also set up wrong in my opinion, they are square with 2 outlets, neither of which are at the dead head of the flow. Anyways, I was wondering if you guys had any suggestions on sealing the cracks between the aluminum panels. Sorry for the long post.
 
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Old 08-29-14, 05:02 PM
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For the roof panels, I'd suggest a sealant in a caulking tube called Geocel 3300. They also make a brushable sealant that works good for joints too small to caulk. Geocel Watershield brushable sealant.
 
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Old 08-30-14, 04:10 AM
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IMO caulking is best although it doesn't hurt to apply a brushable sealant over the caulk. Be sure to get the cracks as clean as you can and let them dry before applying the caulk.


btw - welcome to the forums!
 
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Old 08-30-14, 07:21 PM
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Thanks for the warm welcome

So far, I have tried
Henry 10.3 oz. 209 Elastomastic Sealant-HE209004 at The Home Depot

Which seemed to work for a few days, I have also tried using

Shop BLACK JACK Speed-Patch Blacktop Crack & Hole Repair at Lowes.com

Which only lasted for a couple of days, neither times did I do the whole roof. I have only done the cracks themselves. When I did the black jack patch I cleaned the cracks with bleach and a rag along with scraping the old calking out of the cracks. I did not do the second aluminum coating though. Would it be better to just clean the whole roof and seal over all of it with the Geocel 3300 that you guys are suggesting? And should I do the Geocel 3300 calk first then use the Geocel brush-able on top of it or use a different calk with the Geocel brush-able on top of it?

Thanks for the responses by the way guys, very much appreciated. I am taking over a 35 year old house that is in need of some serious reno's and I think this is probably going to be my primary source of information
 
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Old 08-30-14, 07:55 PM
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I'd caulk with the geocel 3300 clear sealant then wait 7 days to let it fully cure. Then brush as much of the clear Geocel brushable sealant on as you like. Thin coats are best and each coat must be fully cured before adding another.

However I wonder if something else isn't going on. Like maybe water is getting in where the roof panels go into the head receptor... or something else we can't see. You could always post pictures if you like. You just have to upload them.
 
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Old 08-31-14, 04:02 AM
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Did you rinse the roof after cleaning with bleach?
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
 
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Old 08-31-14, 07:17 AM
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No I did not rinse it after, I wiped it with a rag. Here are some pictures (I realize it is not pretty and it needs to be pressure washed but I haven't gotten to that yet).









 
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Old 08-31-14, 07:37 AM
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The previous products you used won't be doing you any favors... you might want to gently take a wire brush to it, or a wire wheel on a drill and try to clean some of it out. Might hurt the paint but having a clean surface is more important.
 
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Old 08-31-14, 09:31 AM
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Also bleach residue can affect adhesion.

I'd mix up a bleach/water solution [40-50% bleach] and add some TSP to the mix, wet the deck and then apply the cleaning solution with a pump up garden sprayer, let it set but not dry and then rinse. An old broom can be helpful on the stubborn areas. If you have someone do the rinsing for you, it will allow you to inspect the underside and hopefully get a better idea as to where the water is getting in.
 
 

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