HELP! Need a bunch of roof advice before this storm get's here!
#1
10-03-14, 10:30 AM
HELP! Need a bunch of roof advice before this storm get's here!
Hi Guys,
So long story short...this started out as updating an unfinished room by the previous owner, which turned out to be an old deck, which turned out to have water damage, which revealed the eaves had water damage, which revealed the crappy roof flashing that caused the water damage, which revealed a crappy roofing job...anyways...I've been working on my roof, and need some help. Keep in mind this is my first time really doing some serious roof work, and I don't have the money to hire a professional since I'm unemployed.
I put this video together of what I'm facing to hopefully clarify some things, but had a few additional questions because the video got cut off at the end:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HP73...e&noredirect=1
1) I'm heading over to lowes to grab a bunch of tarps because there's no way I can get this finished before the storm hits. I figured I could just use that clear plastic floor protection because they're cheaper than actual tarps. I don't want to nail the shingles, but they are calling for some severe thunderstorms and don't want the tarps to blow off. How should I secure them to the roof? Just weight them down with the shingles?
2) I've really struggled with the valleys on this roof. They were originally a closed, woven valley shingle system. Since they never really leaked, I was going to use that. I peeled back the areas where there was felt. I've already nailed down a strip of felt that runs from the crest of the roof past where the valley ends. I pan on putting galvanized flashing over the felt next. Then, I'll replace the felt that was peeled back and renail it down, not putting any nails through the flashing. Finally, I'll nail down the new three tab shingles I have over top. Any tips on these ideas or how to weave the shingles into the valley are appreciated!
3) Should I start at the roof crest where there is an open ridge vent, at the just below the ridge vent area, or from the bottom of the roof?
4) Is the felt decking wrap supposed to go over the ridge vent? Seems like that would be wrong to me, but that's what I found when I took off everything.
5) I got some flashmate to help hold the flashing down in the valleys. Is that even required or recommended, or should I use it for the step flashing on the sides of the house?
6) There's about a 2' section at the roof crest in an area above where I'm working that has zero felt. Should I pull it up and lay new felt? Right now, all the shingles look like they're in good shape, so I'd rather not mess with it unless it poses a future problem.
7) This is a pretty big job. Should I just bite the bullet and replace the whole roof? I've lived here for 9 years. The house was built in 90, and I'm not sure if the roof has been replaced. It has had it's occasional leak, but nothing too serious - though I am seeing some granules in the gutters everytime I clean them. It's not a ton, and the roof still looks pretty good.
I'm no expert, but I can tell you, whoever built this house or did the repairs didn't give a crap about the quality of their work. They installed the cheapest stuff, took shortcuts everywhere they could, did shotty work, and a crappy job of trying to cover up/fix their mistakes. Stuff like that frustrates me to no end. Anyways, thanks a bunch guys for helping me with this stuff!
~Jeff
So long story short...this started out as updating an unfinished room by the previous owner, which turned out to be an old deck, which turned out to have water damage, which revealed the eaves had water damage, which revealed the crappy roof flashing that caused the water damage, which revealed a crappy roofing job...anyways...I've been working on my roof, and need some help. Keep in mind this is my first time really doing some serious roof work, and I don't have the money to hire a professional since I'm unemployed.
I put this video together of what I'm facing to hopefully clarify some things, but had a few additional questions because the video got cut off at the end:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HP73...e&noredirect=1
1) I'm heading over to lowes to grab a bunch of tarps because there's no way I can get this finished before the storm hits. I figured I could just use that clear plastic floor protection because they're cheaper than actual tarps. I don't want to nail the shingles, but they are calling for some severe thunderstorms and don't want the tarps to blow off. How should I secure them to the roof? Just weight them down with the shingles?
2) I've really struggled with the valleys on this roof. They were originally a closed, woven valley shingle system. Since they never really leaked, I was going to use that. I peeled back the areas where there was felt. I've already nailed down a strip of felt that runs from the crest of the roof past where the valley ends. I pan on putting galvanized flashing over the felt next. Then, I'll replace the felt that was peeled back and renail it down, not putting any nails through the flashing. Finally, I'll nail down the new three tab shingles I have over top. Any tips on these ideas or how to weave the shingles into the valley are appreciated!
3) Should I start at the roof crest where there is an open ridge vent, at the just below the ridge vent area, or from the bottom of the roof?
4) Is the felt decking wrap supposed to go over the ridge vent? Seems like that would be wrong to me, but that's what I found when I took off everything.
5) I got some flashmate to help hold the flashing down in the valleys. Is that even required or recommended, or should I use it for the step flashing on the sides of the house?
6) There's about a 2' section at the roof crest in an area above where I'm working that has zero felt. Should I pull it up and lay new felt? Right now, all the shingles look like they're in good shape, so I'd rather not mess with it unless it poses a future problem.
7) This is a pretty big job. Should I just bite the bullet and replace the whole roof? I've lived here for 9 years. The house was built in 90, and I'm not sure if the roof has been replaced. It has had it's occasional leak, but nothing too serious - though I am seeing some granules in the gutters everytime I clean them. It's not a ton, and the roof still looks pretty good.
I'm no expert, but I can tell you, whoever built this house or did the repairs didn't give a crap about the quality of their work. They installed the cheapest stuff, took shortcuts everywhere they could, did shotty work, and a crappy job of trying to cover up/fix their mistakes. Stuff like that frustrates me to no end. Anyways, thanks a bunch guys for helping me with this stuff!
~Jeff
#2
10-03-14, 12:22 PM
Group Moderator
Boy are you in for a battle. I would not try the clear sticky back plastic to save a buck. The roof is totally out of it's realm and I have no confidence that it would stick and stay down during a storm.
I think you need to get some big tarps and some 2x4's or 1x4's. You need to tarp that whole section of the house up and over the ridge. Since you've got the valley bare and the bottom edge of the roof bare you need to stop the water at the very top or it will run under whatever you put up. The boards are to hold the edges of the tarp down so the wind can't get underneath an edge.
You could put down tar paper on the exposed areas. Starting at the bottom and work up overlapping the upper sheet then tucking it under the existing shingles and apply a good number of the tar paper nails that have the large plastic washer.
I think you need to get some big tarps and some 2x4's or 1x4's. You need to tarp that whole section of the house up and over the ridge. Since you've got the valley bare and the bottom edge of the roof bare you need to stop the water at the very top or it will run under whatever you put up. The boards are to hold the edges of the tarp down so the wind can't get underneath an edge.
You could put down tar paper on the exposed areas. Starting at the bottom and work up overlapping the upper sheet then tucking it under the existing shingles and apply a good number of the tar paper nails that have the large plastic washer.
#3
10-03-14, 12:41 PM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Need storm and ice shield in those valley's not metal if your going to weave them.
The directions on how to do all this stuff are right on the bundle of shingles or on the company's website that made the shingles.
Rule #1 when roofing, never tare off more then you can felt and shingle in the same day.
The directions on how to do all this stuff are right on the bundle of shingles or on the company's website that made the shingles.
Rule #1 when roofing, never tare off more then you can felt and shingle in the same day.
#4
10-03-14, 06:23 PM
Well, we survived the storm save a few small leaks we got on the ceiling. So for the next two days I'll be trying to fix this mess since we should have pristine weather. Any advice on my other questions in my previous post about doing the actual repairs? 
#5
10-04-14, 06:36 AM
Group Moderator
2. I have woven valleys on all my houses and have never had problems with any of them so I'd go that route. There is nothing wrong with flashing the valley and cutting the edge of the shingles but since weaving is easier and works I'd go that way unless you want a different look.
3. Always start shingling from the bottom and work up. Done properly shingles will be nailed in two places with the upper nails coming from the next row (above) shingles.
4. The roofing felt should not go over the ridge vent area. That would block the opening for airflow making the ridge vent useless. If you don't have a ridge vent then yes, the tar paper should wrap over the ridge.
5. Had to Google flashmate. I only use tar/sealant on exposed nail heads or as a glue to seal down the tabs of shingles like where the tab will be over flashing. If it's just a bit like where the roof meets a vertical wall and step flashing I don't bother as 1/2 the tab or more is in contact with the glue tab on the shingle below.
6. If it's good I would not tear off at this point as you've already got a full weekend ahead of you. But, how do you know there is no felt underneath? I'd think you'd have to remove the shingles to know what's underneath.
7. Judging by your video and how much you've already got off and how it's spread about the area I'd consider redoing that whole area of the roof. That would rely on more planning however. If it's just you working I'd focus on getting it dried in as you've got enough to keep you occupied this weekend. If you're going to get some helpers or hire a roofer I'd pull off the and re-do all the roof in that part of the house to address the tar paper issue and minor leaks you mentioned... but that requires advanced planning which might be too late at this point.
8. Good luck.
3. Always start shingling from the bottom and work up. Done properly shingles will be nailed in two places with the upper nails coming from the next row (above) shingles.
4. The roofing felt should not go over the ridge vent area. That would block the opening for airflow making the ridge vent useless. If you don't have a ridge vent then yes, the tar paper should wrap over the ridge.
5. Had to Google flashmate. I only use tar/sealant on exposed nail heads or as a glue to seal down the tabs of shingles like where the tab will be over flashing. If it's just a bit like where the roof meets a vertical wall and step flashing I don't bother as 1/2 the tab or more is in contact with the glue tab on the shingle below.
6. If it's good I would not tear off at this point as you've already got a full weekend ahead of you. But, how do you know there is no felt underneath? I'd think you'd have to remove the shingles to know what's underneath.
7. Judging by your video and how much you've already got off and how it's spread about the area I'd consider redoing that whole area of the roof. That would rely on more planning however. If it's just you working I'd focus on getting it dried in as you've got enough to keep you occupied this weekend. If you're going to get some helpers or hire a roofer I'd pull off the and re-do all the roof in that part of the house to address the tar paper issue and minor leaks you mentioned... but that requires advanced planning which might be too late at this point.
8. Good luck.
