Proper way to fix a leak on roof?

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Old 10-28-14, 08:53 PM
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Proper way to fix a leak on roof?

Hello,

I have a leak between the vinyl siding chimney and the shingles on the roof of my house. Before I start and try to fix it, I would like to ask the pro's here what is the proper way to fix it.

Thank you
 
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Old 10-28-14, 09:21 PM
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Well, since vinyl siding is not waterproof, I would question one of two things. What kind of cap is on there to keep water from getting behind the siding at the TOP of the chimney?

Vinyl siding doesn't keep 100% of water out, it relies on the WRB (housewrap or similar) to prevent damage to the sheathing. Water gets on the WRB and has to run out the bottom freely. So the next question would be whether or not the roof flashing goes behind the WRB or not. If the roof flashing is on top of the WRB in a location like that, water that's already on the WRB can run into the top of the flashing. You would want to remove the bottom row or two of siding to check that.

Hard to give you specific instructions on exactly how to fix it since we can't see it... or know what kind of flashing it has... what kind of WRB is behind the siding, etc.

The third question would be, was the flashing done correctly in the first place?
 
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Old 10-29-14, 04:29 AM
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Pictures would help. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html

In addition to Brant's comments, is this leak on the leading side of the chimney? Is there a cricket installed? Let us review the pictures.
 
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Old 11-03-14, 03:32 PM
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Hello and thank you for your reply. Sorry, it took a little bit longer to take the pictures. I also saw that on one pipe the boot is damaged. What do you think of using PermaBoot?

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Old 11-03-14, 04:06 PM
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Permaboots are great as long as your vent pipe is the proper length to allow the cap to direct water into the pipe. It appears your cricket may not be flashed properly, hence the silicone gobbed in there. The lay of the shingles is not with the flow of water, and is awfully small.
 
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Old 11-03-14, 04:09 PM
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Do you have more of those shingles? Cuz IMO, I think you would want to just rip off the shingles around the top side of that chimney, (and probably the sides too) remove a few pieces of the vinyl siding around the lower parts of the chimney, and just redo it all. The caulk around the vinyl siding is a bad sign, telling me they either didn't flash it or weren't sure they had it flashed right.

And as for the boot, if you have the shingles it would take about 5 minutes to change out that $10 boot with the rubber gasket. Permaboot is probably fine for the person who maybe either can't match his shingles or just doesn't have the gumption to replace the boot and would rather just pay $24 + shipping to be able to caulk something over the top.

Better yet, get a lead boot flashing and eliminate the rubber altogether.
 
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Old 11-03-14, 08:11 PM
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I do not have any shingles left. Does homedepot or lowes have some close enough? How do I flash it right around the chimney? What do I have to use? Is there any tutorial? I have a quote from a roof business and they want close to $1,000 which I find way to high.

Thank you
 
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Old 11-03-14, 08:37 PM
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Well this is certainly something you could DIY.

On front of the chimney, there should be a wall flashing that extends out over the shingles about 4" or so, and goes up the wall 4" or so. It's not visible in the photos... but it "could be" covered up by the final row of shingles there. Or it's just not there. :-/ The wall flashing would be detailed on the corners so that the portion on the wall wraps around the corner a couple inches. You can buy galvanized 4x4 flashing.

On the sides, pretty much all you need are a few packs of metal step shingles. They are 5x7 (now usually 6x8) rectangles of sheet metal that you fold in half to form an L. You lay a shingle down, and put a step shingle on the top half of the shingle and put one nail in it (to the roof) then lay another shingle on top to cover it up, and repeat. You would do that up the sides of the chimney. The bottom end of that first step shingle should extend down below the bottom corners of the chimney just a little- maybe up to 1" past- so that water coming down the sides of the chimney will run right past those flaps you bent around the corner of the front wall flashing.

At the top corners of the chimney, you will do something similar to the bottom corner, except it will be the top step flashing that will get folded around the top corner.

That top area where the cricket is built should probably have a couple large pieces of ice and water shield that fold up onto the back of the chimney to leak-proof it. Then on top of that you'd probably place a wall flashing just like what you used on the front chimney wall, but that flashing will all be underneath the shingles. Once it's shingled, you don't need to caulk or tar or silicone anything. The metal flashing is all you need.

There should be a WRB (housewrap) under your vinyl siding and it should overlap all the items above. If for some reason there is no housewrap, instead of taking off all the siding and starting over, you could at least buy some butyl window and door flashing tape and tape the top edges of all the flashing to the sheathing, so that "if" water gets behind the siding from above, it won't run behind the flashing and cause a leak.

I'm not real good at matching shingles from just a photo... you'd probably need to pull up a shingle and look for a brand name (if you're lucky) and at least take that to the store with you to compare. It kind of looks like a Certainteed "mint frost" to me, or similar. Maybe they are "star white" and are just old and dirty? Also you will want to notice if they are 12"... or 13 1/2" (metric).

You might also want to buy some new j-channel for the siding that doesn't have caulk smeared all over it.
 
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Old 11-04-14, 08:01 AM
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X Sleeper, thank you. Would you mind pointing me in the direction of the right parts? (homedepot)
 
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Old 11-04-14, 12:09 PM
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Glad to help.

Amerimax Home Products 4 in. x 4 in. x 8 in. Galvanized Step Flash ProPack-70718 at The Home Depot

I can't find a link to their 4"x4"x10' L-flashing, but if you can't find it in the aisle with the other roof flashings you could get a roll and bend your own.

Amerimax Home Products 14 in. x 10 ft. Galvanized Steel Roll Valley Flashing-70414 at The Home Depot

This type of flashing or similar would work well to tape the flashing to the sheathing.

Grace Vycor Plus 12 in. x 75 ft. Roll Fully-Adhered Flashing-5003107 at The Home Depot

Either of these would work well in lieu of ice and water shield, but there is a lot in the box and might be overkill. If you have any felt paper, you can use that instead as an underlayment on the roof deck before you shingle.
GAF 150 sq. ft. Roll Weather Watch Granular Surfaced Leak Barrier-0912000 at The Home Depot
Grace 18 in. x 50 ft. Roll Roof Detail Membrane-5003228 at The Home Depot
 
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Old 11-04-14, 12:32 PM
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Awesome. Thank you very much for your help.
 
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