Roof Tiles and Exterior Cleaning


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Old 11-16-14, 06:42 AM
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Roof Tiles and Exterior Cleaning

Hi,

I'll separate my question in two hoping to get the answer for both. Here you go:

- Looking to clean my roof tiles but I am undecided on whether or not to hire a company due to the fact that everyone does pressure cleaning and they can damage the roof. Having said that , there are quemicals that can help you to accomplish this. Can you recommend some of the good ones? I also have a 2300 PSI electrical pressure cleaner for which I need to buy a hose extension if I want to do the job myself. Do you think I can do it myself or it is better if I hire someone?

- Looking to clean the exterior of the house as well, is the 2300 PSI pressure cleaner enough for this task? What type of chemical do I need for the cleaning? I need to paint-touch some parts of the house. Any suggestion on cleaning products? Can I clean the soffit part wit the pressure cleaner? What kind of paint I can use for this? How can I repair the air ventilation in th soffit?

In the event I hire a company, what are those things I need to keep in mind to make sure that things are done right?

I hope this is not too much to ask. Thanks in advanced.
 
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Old 11-16-14, 10:32 AM
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What chemicals to use is dependent on what needs to be cleaned off although bleach and/or TSP are most commonly used. IMO you don't need a lot of pressure, the more pressure you have the more apt you are to cause damage. MY pressure washer only puts out 1500 psi and it's always been stout enough for any job I've done in the painting field. I like to spray the cleaning agent on with a pump up garden sprayer and use the PWer for rinsing.

I need to paint-touch some parts of the house. Any suggestion on cleaning products?
What is on the house? obviously you'd use the same paint to touch it up but if it's vinyl or aluminum - you can get the color matched and use a quality latex house paint. The coating on aluminum siding oxidizes with age and if all of that chalk isn't removed or a special primer/additive used to bind it up, paint won't adhere long term.

Tile roofs can be prone to breakage if you aren't careful walking on them! The roof, like siding should always be PWed in a downward motion as you don't want to force water up under it.

Whenever hiring any contractor it's best to get and check references. Multiple quotes will give you a better idea of the cost.
 
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Old 11-29-14, 07:24 PM
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I appreciate your response. In Florida, I always see people using PWer of 3000 psi minimum and no one ever mentions adding anything for the mildew which is probably why roof tiles get dirty so quickly. Can I clean the eaves using my PWer?

What kind of paint do I need to retouch the eaves?
 
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Old 11-30-14, 04:02 AM
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What kind of paint do I need to retouch the eaves?
What paint is on there now? If you don't use the same paint [brand/color] it is unlikely that the touch up would be acceptable. Is the soffit wood? or aluminum?

The better you clean off the mildew the harder it is for it to return but there is no escaping mildew in fla. The north side and/or anywhere it's shady will always mildew quicker than areas that get full sun. The longer a substrate stays damp, the more the conditions are favorable for mildew.
 
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Old 11-30-14, 06:12 AM
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Not sure what the eaves are made of or the paint but I think I can just buy me paint for them since it is not a lot of area to paint. Despite that, I have attached a picture for you to see. Not a lot of sunshine this morning in Miami.

What do I do with those spots in which the paint has completely come off on the outside walls? Do I need to use primer or some other paint? This is very small areas.

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Old 11-30-14, 06:18 AM
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Generally a raw substrate needs prime although on stucco if you just have a small area that needs priming it's acceptable to thin the finish paint 10% and use it to spot prime those areas. You'll want a latex house paint. Your paint appears to have a flat finish. I doubt you'll be able to get touch up to blend but you might get by with just repainting certain sections.

You also want to make sure any chalk residue is washed off the paint before recoating! When it's not feasible to wash it all off use Flood's EmulsaBond in the 1st coat of latex. Paint won't adhere long term to chalk.
 
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Old 12-01-14, 07:06 PM
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Great feedback. Now, do you suggest using semi-gloss paint for the outside? Would it also work for the eaves?
 
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Old 12-02-14, 03:20 AM
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Which sheen to use is more about personal preference than anything else although paint with a sheen generally stays clean longer than flat paint. Personally I like flat paint on stucco and satin on the wood but semi-gloss is fine ... as long as it suits you and yours If you are using house/siding paint, you can use the same paint on both the stucco and wood. Masonry paint should only be used on stucco. I don't recommend masonry paint because it's usually a cheaper grade of paint. Latex house paint will last longer on the stucco [won't fade as quick, usually covers better]
 
 

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