Saving money on roof install?
#1
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Saving money on roof install?
I have a 1200 square foot home and am planning on getting a new roof over the summer. It will be a compete tear down because the roof currently has 3 layers of shingles. Can anyone give me a rough estimate on this job?
Is it possible to save money by doing the tear down myself with some friends, if so, is this a complicated procedure?
Is it possible to save money by doing the tear down myself with some friends, if so, is this a complicated procedure?
#2
12 square isn't very big. Regardless I'd probably charge $150 a square just to tearoff. Your problem will be coordinating a roofer to be on call for the next day.
You ought to just do it all yourself.
You ought to just do it all yourself.
#3
3 layers? Wow...sounds like some DIY stuff was done in the past! Don't think that's allowed anywhere now?
That's gonna be a heck of a lot of work...not the basic tear off so much...but just getting it in the dumpster. I sure wouldn't be up to it. Thats like a local football team job.
Btw...1200 sf home SHOULD be more that 12 sg roofing unless it's flat.
And of course there sheathing condition, rot, etc.
15 yrs ago I'd have said $3-4K, no idea anymore.
That's gonna be a heck of a lot of work...not the basic tear off so much...but just getting it in the dumpster. I sure wouldn't be up to it. Thats like a local football team job.
Btw...1200 sf home SHOULD be more that 12 sg roofing unless it's flat.
And of course there sheathing condition, rot, etc.
15 yrs ago I'd have said $3-4K, no idea anymore.
#4
Any pricing on any websites is just going to be guesses largely due to differences in labor pricing, no one being able to see your house from here to see obstacles there going to have to work around, access to the home, and unless someone has a crystal ball there's no way to know what the price of materials will be.
You also gave us no real measurement of the roof, pitch, or even what type shingles you will be installing, ridge vents or not, adding drip edging?
A roof is simple to measure, length X width, total it up and round up, divide by 100 to know how many squares it is.
A sq. is 10' X 10'.
Most shingle take 3, bundles to make a sq.
Tar paper comes in 2, or 4 sq. rolls.
Always figure about 10% waste. It's easier to have to take a bundle back then run out at the end of a job.
Then you have to add the cost of tar paper, nails, drip edging, all new flashing, ridge vents if needed, tarps to lay on the ground to make clean up easier, dumpster and tipping fees if any at the dump.
Shingle prices changed so fast 2, years ago I could not get a firm quote beyond the day I called for pricing.
You also gave us no real measurement of the roof, pitch, or even what type shingles you will be installing, ridge vents or not, adding drip edging?
A roof is simple to measure, length X width, total it up and round up, divide by 100 to know how many squares it is.
A sq. is 10' X 10'.
Most shingle take 3, bundles to make a sq.
Tar paper comes in 2, or 4 sq. rolls.
Always figure about 10% waste. It's easier to have to take a bundle back then run out at the end of a job.
Then you have to add the cost of tar paper, nails, drip edging, all new flashing, ridge vents if needed, tarps to lay on the ground to make clean up easier, dumpster and tipping fees if any at the dump.
Shingle prices changed so fast 2, years ago I could not get a firm quote beyond the day I called for pricing.
#5
I paid about $6K. But I'm in CA and labor is probably higher. I also wanted a certain contractor to do it, not really regardless of price, but I didn't want any problems whatsoever.
This was for a complete rip off (no pun intended), 40 year architectural shingles, turbo vents, and repairs.
This was for a complete rip off (no pun intended), 40 year architectural shingles, turbo vents, and repairs.
#6
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First, I want to say hello to JoeCaption. Always good to see Joe's advice.
There are several things I wished I had done differently when I had my re-roof done about 8 years ago.
Good luck.
There are several things I wished I had done differently when I had my re-roof done about 8 years ago.
- Get multiple estimates. Roofers seem eager to do this. I did get multiple estimates. Estimates alone are not enough though. Get references.
- In my area, ice & water shield are required, by code, on the roof at the eaves. Make sure your roofer (or you, if you do it yourself) include this.
- Gutters. Re-roofing often damages gutters. If your gutters are near needing replacement, have them done after the roof. If your gutters are good, get assurances that the roofer will "do the right thing" if they are damaged.
- If you have one or more roof-lines meeting a sidewall, make sure you know how the roofer is going to flash that area. They should use peel & stick membrane under the metal step flashing.
- If you have a flashed area where a lot of moss grows, consider paying extra for copper flashing (it will inhibit the moss).
- Kick-out diverter. Make sure the roofer (or you) installs the kick-out. It's something that really can't be done properly after the install, since it goes under the first flashing piece.
- Get a guarantee from the roofer--in writing. If you have leaks down the road, you want some recourse.
- Keep an extra bundle or two of the shingles. You'll need to instruct the roofer that you want it. Shingles can go out of style. Stash some away for any future repairs.
Good luck.
#8
Looks from here that back yards going to be the hardest clean up issue.
Simple to measure of you can picture that roof as rectangles and triangles.
Simple to measure of you can picture that roof as rectangles and triangles.
#10
Make sure that nails, and not staples, are used for installing the shingles. While nails are a requirement in both the Oregon Residential Code and the International Residential Code, lots of roofers in Oregon like to use (faster and slightly cheaper) staples.
#12
What's that white looking thing on the back side of the house?
Make sure contract reads "replace all flashing" not replace flashing as needed!
Make sure they add drip edging on all sides, not just at the bottom edge.
I'd have that dumpster dropped right in that driveway as close as possible to the house tight to that inside corner.
That way that whole side can be stripped and dropped right off the roof.
Mow the lawn and trim any hedges before beginning, cover any bushes with cheap tarps, lay tarps on the ground where your stripping. Makes clean up a lot easier.
Make sure contract reads "replace all flashing" not replace flashing as needed!
Make sure they add drip edging on all sides, not just at the bottom edge.
I'd have that dumpster dropped right in that driveway as close as possible to the house tight to that inside corner.
That way that whole side can be stripped and dropped right off the roof.
Mow the lawn and trim any hedges before beginning, cover any bushes with cheap tarps, lay tarps on the ground where your stripping. Makes clean up a lot easier.
#14
It's not that much harder...but the disposal fee is an issue. And if they can't put a dumpster where it goes right in..that means more labor to move the debris.