Do I need gutters?
#1
02-24-15, 09:02 PM
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 136
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Do I need gutters?
When the world thaws, I need to replace a small portion of roof on an addition. It's about 5ft x 6ft. There are currently gutters on the addition, but are they necessary? I don't think the down spouts are placed in the best way, and now I'm wondering if I need gutters at all? The slope on the addition is moderate, but the slope on the rest is quite steep, so I'm assuming that runoff won't be a big issue.
#2
02-24-15, 09:17 PM
Group Moderator
If you don't replace the gutter..... where will all the water end up ?
If you don't have a basement there it may fly but you need to get the water away from the foundation as well as what happens when water falls, hits the dirt and splashes mud everywhere.
If you don't have a basement there it may fly but you need to get the water away from the foundation as well as what happens when water falls, hits the dirt and splashes mud everywhere.
#3
02-24-15, 09:20 PM
Member
Any roof runoff that you can prevent from seeping down along the basement or crawlspace foundation walls is helpful. If you don't mind a soggy basement or crawlspace, skip spending the $30 a short run of gutter will cost.
But keep in mind it could cost more than 100 times that amount to repair a collapsed foundation wall.
But keep in mind it could cost more than 100 times that amount to repair a collapsed foundation wall.
#4
02-25-15, 04:06 AM
The 2 main reasons for having gutters is to get the roof water away from the house/foundation and to prevent drips hitting you when going in/out. I only have a short gutter over my front porch steps BUT my house sits on top of a slate rock hill and the ground never gets soggy around my foundation. Unless you are sure water won't collect next to the foundation - it needs to be collected and directed away from the house!
#5
02-26-15, 07:52 AM
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 136
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
A little clarification - this is a second story addition. Any runoff will be collected by the lower gutters, which will stay put. It might be a bit hard to see, but where the red arrow is pointing, there is ice buildup. I already have to replace half of the roof on this addition, right down to the decking, possible the rafters underneath.
So if gutters should be on this, shouldn’t they drain AWAY from the house, with a 90 degree downspout to the lower level gutter(like the green line)
?
So if gutters should be on this, shouldn’t they drain AWAY from the house, with a 90 degree downspout to the lower level gutter(like the green line)
?
#6
02-26-15, 10:59 AM
Group Moderator
I'm not the pro here but I see that setup causing problems. Bringing the water back to the roof like that won't work and in your case when the downspout froze you had a frozen overflow.
I believe your idea with the downspout in the front is the proper way to drain that gutter. You still need the gutter or the water falling on the first floor roof will wear the shingles quickly.
I believe your idea with the downspout in the front is the proper way to drain that gutter. You still need the gutter or the water falling on the first floor roof will wear the shingles quickly.
#7
02-26-15, 06:06 PM
I would concur... the problem will be excessive wear on the singles where the water would hit the lower roof. A number of years of heavy rains pelting that section of shingle in an un-controlled manner can cause wear issues.
#8
02-28-15, 11:08 PM
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 136
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Never though of the damage that could occur! thanks for the tip. Does that mean that i need all new gutters on the addition?
#9
02-28-15, 11:18 PM
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 136
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Off Topic-
The area enclosed in the ‘roof’ of this add-on is completely independent of the rest of the attic ‘airspace’ shall we say…
There will be ventilation by the exhaust fan, while operating, but should there be an additional vent?
Even more off topic-
I have no eave vents, and the roof ventilation is minimal. I’ve sen where holes are cut in the eaves and vents installed, but i have maybe 2.5” from back of gutter to the side of the house. and shi++y insulation shoved up in it all…
The area enclosed in the ‘roof’ of this add-on is completely independent of the rest of the attic ‘airspace’ shall we say…
There will be ventilation by the exhaust fan, while operating, but should there be an additional vent?
Even more off topic-
I have no eave vents, and the roof ventilation is minimal. I’ve sen where holes are cut in the eaves and vents installed, but i have maybe 2.5” from back of gutter to the side of the house. and shi++y insulation shoved up in it all…
#10
03-26-15, 05:14 PM
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 136
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I’ve got a little further into this. It seems when this addition was built, they built it right over the existing roof, shingles and all. Is this to code? I’m assuming it was done this way so the structural integrity of the existing roof would not be compromised.
Do I need to fix this?
This also lends to the lack of ventilation in the addition ‘attic’ space. I’lll take more pics when I can.
Do I need to fix this?
This also lends to the lack of ventilation in the addition ‘attic’ space. I’lll take more pics when I can.
#11
03-26-15, 05:27 PM
Ventilation certainly needs to be addressed. If one of the mods could move this to its own thread so we can discuss ventilation as opposed to gutters it would help. I'll wait to see if we get moved. More pictures would help including what the outside looks like.
Bud
Bud
#12
03-26-15, 06:16 PM
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 136
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
#14
03-30-15, 08:03 AM
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 136
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
What if i were to cut large holes in the existing roof, to allow access to that ventilation (gable vents on both ends of the attic, with a large vent in the center)
This might save some trouble with an engineer if i just cut through the decking and shingles.
This might save some trouble with an engineer if i just cut through the decking and shingles.
#15
03-30-15, 09:29 AM
Certainly better than nothing, but generally you want air flow into and out of that space.
Not sure what you are describing "(gable vents on both ends of the attic, with a large vent in the center)". Is this what you have or what you will install?
Bud
Not sure what you are describing "(gable vents on both ends of the attic, with a large vent in the center)". Is this what you have or what you will install?
Bud
#16
03-30-15, 10:43 AM
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 136
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
This and the main roof/attic area run perpendicular to each other. In the main attic space, there are gable vents on each end, and a fan.
#17
03-30-15, 01:06 PM
Gable vents alone don't vent well naturally without a high and low pressure difference, but they do allow the wind to move some air. For the picture where you boxed the two locations for cutting through to the larger attic, you should still have an opening to the outside from somewhere inside that space, ie another gable vent or a ridge vent or other.
But as I said, with just those areas removed it will still be better. Time will tell if that is enough.
Mold is a moisture issue and air leaks from the house to the attic are a path for moisture to get in there. I'll add a link on air sealing.
http://www.efficiencyvermont.com/ste...ide_062507.pdf
Bud
But as I said, with just those areas removed it will still be better. Time will tell if that is enough.
Mold is a moisture issue and air leaks from the house to the attic are a path for moisture to get in there. I'll add a link on air sealing.
http://www.efficiencyvermont.com/ste...ide_062507.pdf
Bud
