aluminum facia water behind gutter

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Old 05-21-15, 02:57 PM
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aluminum facia water behind gutter

When there is aluminum covering the facias, is water getting behind a gutter as big as an issue if you only had exposed wood facia? What occurs in both cases?
 
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Old 05-21-15, 03:58 PM
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Well, the aluminum cover will keep the wood wet longer, so in that respect, it is probably MORE susceptible to rot if it's getting wet. It can't dry out as quickly since it's covered up. Water should not be getting behind the gutter in the first place... if it is, either the gutter is too low, or the wrong type of drip edge was used or maybe no drip edge was used!
 
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Old 05-21-15, 04:30 PM
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How do you know if water is getting behind the gutters? Will it be visual from dripping from the bottom back of the gutter?

I ask because I have no drip edge other than proper overhang of shingles. For the most part they stay flush with with the facia but some spots the gutter seemed to be pulling the facia. Is it wrong to caulk the back seem where the gutter and facia meet? There were a few spots that were bent and pulling from the facia... I reattached with screws and caulked that lip. I hope I didn't cause more issues because of it.
 
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Old 05-21-15, 05:24 PM
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Well, if you have no drip edge, I would guarantee you are probably getting water behind the gutters. And yes, it will drip from the back side of the gutter.

Wrong to caulk? Maybe not "wrong" but I would never do it! I would buy gutter apron and slip it under the shingles and over the gutters. It's about $0.50/ft.

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Old 05-21-15, 06:59 PM
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Hi thanks for your reply, I appreciate it!

Its my understanding drip edge isn't used in every part the country nor do the shingle manufactures call for it as long as their is proper overhang of shingles.

As far as adding one after the fact or your gutter apron as you suggest, can that be done without damaging the shingles? I wished I would have known about that before I used my gutter sealant at that lip..... you feel thats a bad idea on my part?

In your photo, notice there is no shingles overhanging.. the two materials are flush.
 
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Old 05-21-15, 07:23 PM
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I don't think I'm out of line by saying this, and I don't mean for it to sound rude, but I think mainly it is lazy, cheap or half-baked carpenters or roofers... or people who just don't know any better... who would omit drip edge when they are shingling an asphalt shingled roof. It is usually standard to omit drip edge on a wood shingle roof, because wood shingles can hang over 2" or so without curling, and a wood 1x2 or 1x4 drip edge is often used in place of metal. Most asphalt shingle mfg's will specify underlayment and metal drip edge as requirements.

As far as being able to put it in without damaging shingles... yes, you usually can at least insert it without much trouble, since it goes under your starter shingles which "should be" nailed high. But if you can't lift the shingles to nail, you can always screw the drip edge to the back of the gutter with just a minimum amount of screws.

I wouldn't say the caulk was a bad idea, just not a good one. If it solved your problem, great- that's all that matters. It just may not last more than one season if you get much ice in your gutters. As far as the photo is concerned, I think they show it flush for clarity. Always follow shingle mfg instructions as to the amount of overhang.
 
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