Fixing leaky roof


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Old 06-20-15, 09:56 AM
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Fixing leaky roof

My roof is leaking in a few spots along the edge. Here is a view of the angle. The leaking is occurring at the edge of the shingles above the 3 nearest windows (of the set of 5):
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Here is a straight on view of the roof edge:
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And here is a close up of where the leak must be occurring at the roof's edge:
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I noticed some leaking/seeping inside the house in the corner of the room above those panes of glass. Since it's leaking in the corner and there is nothing above the leaking area on the exterior, water must be coming in where the shingles end. When I originally went to investigate the leak, I noticed that most of the nails holding in that top roof of shingles along the edge had popped through an old dried out dab of tar/sealant. So I applied some new tar on them to seal them. You can see one somewhat prominently in the image above. Unfortunately, it kept leaking.

I had a professional come out and give me an estimate yesterday and it's more than I'd like to pay. When I was talking to the guy about what he would do, he wants to:

- remove first 2 rows of shingles
- install ice and water shield along ridge and hanging over sidewall slightly
- install drip edge
- install new shingles

I was hoping to get some feedback on how I could accomplish this myself since he wanted more than I'm willing to pay and I think the ice and water shield is overkill. If I had to guess, I would say that when it rain hard, water is getting under that first row of shingles and slowly makes its way in the house right below that. So I believe I need to install a drip edge over everything. If that is the case, it's just a matter of how to do that properly.

Would a product like this work, installed over the top row of shingles and the edge? I would intend to secure it with 1 1/2" wood tite screws.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 06-20-15, 12:41 PM
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Not the best roof design by far. In absoluteness, the ice and water shield would be your best protection at that point. I'm not sure why you don't think it would. It self heals when nails are driven through it, so it adds that much more protection. You have found that covering the nail heads with tar didn't fix it, making the very edge of the shingles the culprit, IMO.

What your contractor is suggesting may be spot on, but it is also a DIY project, where you can save a little money. The gable trim might also be viable, but it must be sealed and the ends not left open, so some designing and cutting/riveting will need to be done. Metal to wood screws you suggest would work as well.
 
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Old 06-20-15, 01:09 PM
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The first 2 rows of shingles need to come off, yes. Then the existing flashing should come off. The 2nd row of shingles should be replaced. A wide piece of flat metal flashing should be placed over those shingles (it will be almost as wide as your final row of shingles is) The metal edge flashing should go on top of that. The final row of shingles is then applied over the top of the flashing, and is just for looks.

You may find that the existing shingles and flashing are fine and that the problem is with the cladding on the windows. Vinyl siding could also be to blame if you say it's in the corner. But we can't see that in the photos good enough.
 
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Old 06-20-15, 02:37 PM
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You can see visible cupping in the upper most row of shingles. This will cause water to stand in that area and test any possible hole. It usually isn't the visible holes but the ones under that are not visible that may be subject to the standing water. It also looks like clear roof patch was used. I would default to a tar based patch such as black jack or henry makes one available at the box stores. Lift the first row and seal those nail heads. If that covers it, then you can buy some time to do more permanent repairs as outlined by Larry and Brant.
 
 

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