dormer fascia and soffit details


Old 10-29-15, 11:40 AM
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dormer fascia and soffit details

Had some questions about the soffit and fascia on a dormer meeting the roof. Ive attached a picture i found online, that is exactly what i have, minus the valley flashing.

Do i just put aluminum fascia over the step flashing?
If so, should i caulk where the fascia butts against it?
Where the soffit meets the roof, how should that be secured? Surely not with a piece of fchannel on the shingles?Name:  Roofing 5_thumb[1].jpg
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Old 10-29-15, 12:25 PM
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Step flashing should have been trimmed along the bottom of the fascia.
The coil stock holds up and covers the ends of the soffit.
The wood part of the fascia should not make contact with the shingles.
Old 10-29-15, 01:38 PM
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Joe thanks for the reply.
What do you mean, the step flashing should be trimmed?
Also, in my scenario, the fascia board has about 1/2" gap between shingles, so thats good.

I guess i was trying to integrate the fascia, soffit with the shingles and the flashing, but in reality the soffit doesnt touch the shingles at all. So how far up the soffit eaves should i have shingled?
Old 10-29-15, 05:29 PM
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I agree there should be a gap between the wood fascia and the shingles as Joe mentioned. Your shingles continue right underneath the fascia all the way to the wall, looks like you did that. But it looks like the top of your step flashing should have been snipped shorter on top (a level cut) so that it would slide up higher, with more overlap behind the step shingle above it. (your step flashing is bent at a 90, and is under the shingles, right?) The bottom corner of your step flashing should be just slightly longer than the point where the bottom edge of your soffit will be, so that water can run past it.

Easiest thing to do with your f-channel is to measure the distance from the wall to the fascia. Lets say its 12". Trim 15" off the nailing fin of your f-channel. Then snip the top and bottom legs of your f-channel at a 90 at that same point. Trim one half of that cut back at a 45 on the top and bottom legs, so that you can bend that piece 90 to form an inside mitered corner. Now your piece is 3" too long, right? Trim the bottom leg and back of the f-channel back another 3", cutting them completely off (even with the front of the fascia) but leave the tab on top. Bend that 3" long tab upward at a 90, so that as you slide the long piece of f-channel onto the wall and up tight to the shingles, that 12" long piece will still be attached, and the 3" long tab will slip behind your step flashing where you can square it up and then put a nail into it... this will keep it from blowing back uphill under the soffit during a storm. I will usually lay a framing square inside the f-channel to help determine where it is square, before nailing it. You generally want the soffit to touch the shingles, otherwise birds and critters will want to get in there.

Some guys will bend a custom flashing out of sheet metal or aluminum trim coil to actually block off that area, making it impossible for the soffit or channel to blow back in there. So that's another idea.

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