roof angles and outter wall sealing
#1
11-24-15, 04:32 PM
Join Date: Aug 2014
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roof angles and outter wall sealing
Hi,
I have a part underground wall (bitumen and potector on it) and need to cover the ground level next to wall with slabs at an angle, for rain run off. Will this help stop water running down the walls and keep the soil underneath dry ?
The potector comes all the way up the wall a foot or above ground level.
anyone have any ideas or way on how to finish that part off and make it look nice around the base ?
And need to precut roof thrusses ( never done it before )
but just to verify, this is what iv worked out.
If my roof span is 128'' just over 10F. That / by 2, - half the ridge rafter thicness. gives me 63.3'' witch would be my apx. run. and then to add to that is the 4'' over hang and the birdsmouths is where i need help with calcutions on?
the reason for the custer is im changing from a flat roof to a gable and there hight limits, so the pitch can only be 3F max (on top of what i have)
So just to make sure things dont go over ur to much under
cheers
I have a part underground wall (bitumen and potector on it) and need to cover the ground level next to wall with slabs at an angle, for rain run off. Will this help stop water running down the walls and keep the soil underneath dry ?
The potector comes all the way up the wall a foot or above ground level.
anyone have any ideas or way on how to finish that part off and make it look nice around the base ?
And need to precut roof thrusses ( never done it before )
but just to verify, this is what iv worked out.
If my roof span is 128'' just over 10F. That / by 2, - half the ridge rafter thicness. gives me 63.3'' witch would be my apx. run. and then to add to that is the 4'' over hang and the birdsmouths is where i need help with calcutions on?
the reason for the custer is im changing from a flat roof to a gable and there hight limits, so the pitch can only be 3F max (on top of what i have)
So just to make sure things dont go over ur to much under
cheers
#2
11-24-15, 04:53 PM
Member
With such a short span, I suggest just drawing a side elevation out with chalk on the garage floor or driveway, full size. Then it will be easy to determine the exact angles you need and location of the birds mouth. You only have to draw one side since the other will just be a mirror image. Then cut two rafters, try them out, and adjust a little if needed.
#3
11-24-15, 06:42 PM
Join Date: Aug 2014
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yea ill try cutting a couple of rough pieces of smaller wood and use that as a model to see.
I just dont want to mess the tiber up completly, and have to start all over.
Next is venting, do i have to build that inside the roof a certin way or just install vents into the soffit ?
I just dont want to mess the tiber up completly, and have to start all over.
Next is venting, do i have to build that inside the roof a certin way or just install vents into the soffit ?
#4
11-24-15, 07:41 PM
Member
Soffit vents should be combined with a ridge vent. The air flows in the soffit vent, up through the attic space and out through the ridge vent. There are several kinds but all work more or less the same way. You have to hold the roof sheathing back an inch or two from the ridge to allow room for the air to flow through the ridge vent. Since you're building it new, a continuous soffit and continuous ridge vent is usually the easiest and best way to go.
