Best method to shorten a one-piece aluminum downspout?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 7
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Best method to shorten a one-piece aluminum downspout?
Hello,
Last winter I had new all aluminum gutters and downspouts installed. The new downspouts were to be the same length as the old ones, but they're too long and it was never corrected. (Ugly story for another time.)
My home has an 8" high flowerbed border around the entire perimeter. The new downspouts are almost ground level and do a fantastic job of creating a moat around my house in a good rain...
The old, shorter downspouts used rigid plastic extensions to divert the water past the flowerbed border. The extensions also fit the new downspout elbows, so I can still use them if I shorten the new downspouts.
The new downspouts are one continuous run of aluminum, with elbows formed in the ends. One elbow slips over the run coming off the gutter toward the wall, the other elbow is the one down at the ground.
So, I'll have to cut the downspouts to shorten them. Is it better to cut near the top elbow or near the bottom one? How far from the elbow if so? Or should it be cut somewhere else along the length? What's the best way to cut it?
I'm complete n00b but I'd like to give it a go. I have no problem calling a(nother) pro to make it right if I muck it up, so I might as well give it a shot and see what I can do.
Thank you very much for any help.
Last winter I had new all aluminum gutters and downspouts installed. The new downspouts were to be the same length as the old ones, but they're too long and it was never corrected. (Ugly story for another time.)
My home has an 8" high flowerbed border around the entire perimeter. The new downspouts are almost ground level and do a fantastic job of creating a moat around my house in a good rain...

The old, shorter downspouts used rigid plastic extensions to divert the water past the flowerbed border. The extensions also fit the new downspout elbows, so I can still use them if I shorten the new downspouts.
The new downspouts are one continuous run of aluminum, with elbows formed in the ends. One elbow slips over the run coming off the gutter toward the wall, the other elbow is the one down at the ground.
So, I'll have to cut the downspouts to shorten them. Is it better to cut near the top elbow or near the bottom one? How far from the elbow if so? Or should it be cut somewhere else along the length? What's the best way to cut it?
I'm complete n00b but I'd like to give it a go. I have no problem calling a(nother) pro to make it right if I muck it up, so I might as well give it a shot and see what I can do.
Thank you very much for any help.
#2
Member
How much do you have to cut off, and how many do you have to trim?
Generally the elbows are separate pieces that just slide into the downspouts and are secured with screws or rivet, I assume that's what you have.... If that's the case, you will find it better to cut the top because the elbow is crimped to slide inside the downspout at the top, while at the bottom, the downspout should be crimped to slide inside the elbow, so if you cut the bottom, you will have redo the crimping. Not a big deal, but requires a special tool.
Assuming you can take them off without too much trouble, they cut easily on a chop saw with a carbide blade. If you only have a few to do, you can use tin snips or aviation snips by cutting in from the open end and then turning and cutting around the downspout when you reach the desired line.
You can also use a dremel with a cut off wheel.
Good luck!
Generally the elbows are separate pieces that just slide into the downspouts and are secured with screws or rivet, I assume that's what you have.... If that's the case, you will find it better to cut the top because the elbow is crimped to slide inside the downspout at the top, while at the bottom, the downspout should be crimped to slide inside the elbow, so if you cut the bottom, you will have redo the crimping. Not a big deal, but requires a special tool.
Assuming you can take them off without too much trouble, they cut easily on a chop saw with a carbide blade. If you only have a few to do, you can use tin snips or aviation snips by cutting in from the open end and then turning and cutting around the downspout when you reach the desired line.
You can also use a dremel with a cut off wheel.
Good luck!
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 7
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Thank you for replies!
The elbows are not separate pieces. The downspouts are one piece with the elbows formed in each end, I watched them do it with some machine they had in the back of one of the trucks.
I have seven to shorten, it ranges from 10" to 13" to terminate them at the same height as the old downspouts.
Given that the elbows are part of the downspout and don't come off, where would be the best place to cut? I'm thinking below the upper elbow some inches, to allow a straight piece to slip into the (new) bottom piece, but I don't know why I think that
The elbows are not separate pieces. The downspouts are one piece with the elbows formed in each end, I watched them do it with some machine they had in the back of one of the trucks.
I have seven to shorten, it ranges from 10" to 13" to terminate them at the same height as the old downspouts.
Given that the elbows are part of the downspout and don't come off, where would be the best place to cut? I'm thinking below the upper elbow some inches, to allow a straight piece to slip into the (new) bottom piece, but I don't know why I think that

#5
That means you'll be cutting a straight piece of pipe. That would require you to pick up a downspout crimping tool so that you can crimp the upper pipe smaller to fit in the lower pipe.

(picture courtesy of Family Handyman)

(picture courtesy of Family Handyman)
#6
Member
In that case, I don't think it matters much where you cut it....but if you can hide the seam behind one of the mounting straps it would make for a nice clean look.
As Pete said you'll need the crimp tool...they aren't very expensive, and you will need to allow a little over an inch extra length for the overlap. Remember the top piece always goes inside the bottom piece; otherwise you get leaks and clogs.
As Pete said you'll need the crimp tool...they aren't very expensive, and you will need to allow a little over an inch extra length for the overlap. Remember the top piece always goes inside the bottom piece; otherwise you get leaks and clogs.
#7
Given that the elbows are part of the downspout and don't come off
#9
Member
Downspouts
Post a photo of what you have now from a position far enough back to show the entire downspout and the location of the mounting straps. Then we can give you better advice.