No Step-flashing on part of new roof - ICE LEAK


Old 01-23-16, 10:18 PM
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No Step-flashing on part of new roof - ICE LEAK

Hello all,

I had a Roofer replace my whole 25 square roof 4 months ago. There was a part of 1 story roof that did not have step flashing to begin with. This edge of 1st story roof basically meets the asbestos siding of 2nd story wall. Since we did not replace the siding, the roofer said he had no way of adding step flashing there and will just cover up the edge with a 10 foot gutter lead connecting 2nd story roof gutter line to 1st story roof gutter line.

The roof did not leak when it rained but I just discovered water leaking on 1st floor ceiling when ice+snow was melting on roof. I had this leaking problem before and knew the problem was in the vicinity of 1st story roof that did not have step flashing and was just tarred.

There was also a chimney that was overlooked on 2nd story roof that did not have step flashing before. All that the roofer did was tar it perhaps to save money on material.

To say the least, I'm never using this roofer again or referring him anywhere but this thread is really not about him and I just want to move forward and get suggestions on how to fix the part of 1 story roof without replacing 1.5-2 square of shingles and making it water-proof where it meets the siding? The length of this edge without step flashing is about 10-12 feet. It is easily accessable to me.

The 2nd story chimney doesn't leak as far as I can tell.

Is there any way to add step flashing to that 1st story roof? Perhaps adding step flashing and sandwich it with a row of 2nd layer of matching roof shingles + replacing the siding on that wall that only measures 30x10? Im not sure, just thinking outside the box.

Is there any way to add step flashing to the 2nd story chimney after a finished roof?

Any suggestions are welcomed. Any quick fixes for now? Tar? Caulk?

Thanks in advance
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Old 01-24-16, 03:04 AM
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The slate siding is available, you just need to find it. (GAF weatherside) i think you can special order it through home depot. It may not match perfectly but if you want step flashing, you're going to have to remove the siding. Slipping the step flashing under the shingles is easy, you just start at the bottom and slide the flashing up under the shingle until it stops at a nail where the course above is nailed, then you nail the step flashing to the wall only (not the roof) then repeat for the next row, putting that step shingle on TOP of the last shingle, but sliding it under the next. You may need to use a wonder bar and give it a whack with a hammer to pop the shingles up if the sun has sealed them together, or you may need to cut his sealant with a knife or chip it with a putty knife, depending on what he used. You would then want to cover the top of your step flashing (really the entire wall) with a wrb, followed by siding. If water gets behind the original siding, the step flashing can leak.

Chimneys are also fairly easy, but since you cant nail to a brick chimney, you have to nail the stepflashing to the roof... and also unless your chimney is made of wood, you don't put housewrap (your wrb) on a chimney, it needs a counterflashing. (A waterproof flashing that overlaps upturned one). On a chimney, this usually requires a grinder to grind out some mortar out of the joints... some sheet lead, (which is very malleable- you can bend it by hand easily) some solder and a soldering iron. Then you can either caulk the top edge of the flashing where you tucked it into the mortar joint, or you can tuck point it with mortar. The top edge of the chimney is the side that requires you to remove a shingle or two, which you can usually do carefully, so that you can reuse the shingle. Because you need a wide continuous flashing above the chimney that also goes up the chimney and tucks into a joint. Corners must be detailed properly, and requires some soldering. Some might use sealant... depends how fussy you want to be. A solder joint, when properly done, will never leak.
Old 01-27-16, 11:30 PM
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Thank you XSleeper for your detailed advice! I will take a gander during the spring time. I had no idea you can still add flashing to a finished roof but from what you said it should not be that difficult. I was thinking way too hard and most of my carpenter pals say it is impossible since the shingles are weaved in.

Surprisingly and strangely, the leak on my ceiling has stopped even when there is still snow on the troubled spot on the roof without flashing. This will buy me some time until Spring.

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