Need gutters, prep fascia?
#1
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Need gutters, prep fascia?
So I need to get gutters put on. Too much rain is starting to dampen the basement. However, I'm curious about how to get my fascia ready for it. I have a piece of 1x2 that goes along the roof edge at the top of the fascia boards and then the drip edge over that. Do I need to remove that, or what's the best way to handle that? Pics below.
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I figured I'd replace any damaged boards and add another coat of paint on to the rest before adding the gutters.
Any ideas what boards to use? Just standard pine that's primed and painted with outdoor paint?
Thjanks!
![Name: 20170521_123336[1].jpg
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![Name: 20170521_123346[1].jpg
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I figured I'd replace any damaged boards and add another coat of paint on to the rest before adding the gutters.
Any ideas what boards to use? Just standard pine that's primed and painted with outdoor paint?
Thjanks!
#2
To make the best of a bad situation (having the 1x2 there) would be to remove the 1x2 and allow your gutter back to rest under the lip of the drip edge, sloping it properly to the downspouts. You should remember to use fasteners ONLY through the fascia into the rafter tail (identified by nail heads).
Paint your replacement boards on all 6 sides. Are you planning on installing the guttering yourself or having a gutter company install seamless gutters (preferred)?
Paint your replacement boards on all 6 sides. Are you planning on installing the guttering yourself or having a gutter company install seamless gutters (preferred)?
#3
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Yeah, I will be doing it myself with what I can get at the home stores. Looks like they do have 16' pieces which will help reduce the seams, but yes, it'll have some seams.
While I'd love to get the seamless, the budget isn't there for it. Now if the car didn't need new bearings and timing chain, then maybe I could hire it out. But we're getting enough rain that I need to get something going sooner than later.
It's a 24x44 single story house, hip roof. THinking drainspouts at each corner and gutters sloped from middle out on each side.
Do you need to prime exterior paint first, or is just paint sufficient or 2 coats?
I'm not sure if I've painted any exterior stuff before..
While I'd love to get the seamless, the budget isn't there for it. Now if the car didn't need new bearings and timing chain, then maybe I could hire it out. But we're getting enough rain that I need to get something going sooner than later.
It's a 24x44 single story house, hip roof. THinking drainspouts at each corner and gutters sloped from middle out on each side.
Do you need to prime exterior paint first, or is just paint sufficient or 2 coats?
I'm not sure if I've painted any exterior stuff before..
#5
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It's best to use an oil base exterior wood primer as it will adhere and seal better than latex. 2 coats of a quality latex house paint once the primer has dried - ideally 1 coat before installation and the final coat after the new wood is nailed up. Caulk all the joints.
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well, adding another snag..appears that half of the space behind the 1x4 is empty, meaning the 1x6 fascia board doesn't go all the way up. And it's not quite enough space for a 1x8 if i removed the 1x6 down.
Is that gap normal? That seems too big of a gap for infiltration of every sort..
Ideas?
Is that gap normal? That seems too big of a gap for infiltration of every sort..
Ideas?
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#7
We can't judge size, since you said it was a 1x2 in your original post, it would just have been added to the fascia board to increase the length of your shingles' overhang. Yes, that is too much of a gap to jump. You may be relegated to installing gutters on the super fascia board and let them go under the drip edge. Again, not ideal, but cards are dealt.