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Advice on fixing grading/drainage around house surrounded on 3 sides by asphalt

Advice on fixing grading/drainage around house surrounded on 3 sides by asphalt


  #1  
Old 06-15-18, 01:02 PM
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Advice on fixing grading/drainage around house surrounded on 3 sides by asphalt

I'm closing on a house next week and have 2 major issues that I'd like to take care of asap. #1 is siding, which I will most likely leave to the pros and #2 is the grading/drainage issue which I am contemplating DIY'ing all or at least part of it.

The house is surrounded on 3 sides by asphalt right up against the foundation which appears to have never been graded properly, with the grading sloped slightly toward the house on about half the perimeter (front and right sides). The basement window sill at the front of the house is completely rotted, there is rot on the siding on the right side entrance and there are some signs of moisture in some of the basement walls.

My initial thoughts was to get an asphalt company to put row of sloped asphalt all around the perimeter and install a basement window well around that front window. My only concern is as the asphalt will get older, it could start letting water in and only act as a bandaid.

My second thought was to cut out the asphalt about 2ft radius all around the house, dig down to the frost line (I believe it's 36" in Pike County, PA where the house is), and install a french drain with perforated piping and sloped gravel. Additionally install a channel drain in front of the front basement window and side entrance (it's tough to see it in the photos, but looks like water pools around there), connect them up to the downspouts and run it to daylight.

Neither option seems ideal - so I'm open to suggestions. Let me know your thoughts. Thank you!

Front of House


Front of House 2


Left Side


Read/Right Side
 
  #2  
Old 06-15-18, 01:13 PM
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Siding will rot anytime it is closer than 6" to grade, since it gets splashed constantly when it is closer than that. If you are serious about the basement waterproofing, you would be wise to just excavate 3 feet around the entire home, power wash it, and have an exterior waterproofing applied to the walls. If you want to include a perforated drain pipe that drains to daylight along with pipe fabric (keeps dirt out) and gravel, that would be one option, but the pipe would need to be sloped properly (shot with a transit) all the way to daylight. The gravel doesn't need to be sloped, the pipe does. And it should really be deeper than your footer is... whatever depth it is at.
Can't see all your downspouts but generally they ought to drain farther away from the house than what most usually do.

I don't know that the drainage is as much a problem as you are making it out to be. Wood rots, that's just a fact of life. It was stupid to have the window so close to grade in the first place. I would replace the window with something that won't rot. Vinyl, fiberglass, aluminum clad. And raise it up a few inches so its not so close to the ground.
 
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Old 06-15-18, 01:19 PM
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you would be wise to just excavate 3 feet around the entire home
Would the frost line be sufficient? I have read a few guides that require digging down to the slab.

have an exterior waterproofing applied to the walls
What would you recommend? Something like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/BLACK-JACK-...ealant/3043257 ?

I don't know that the drainage is as much a problem as you are making it out to be.
The inspector did find high levels of moisture in a couple of the basement (finished) walls - so there's definitely something going on there.

It was stupid to have the window so close to grade in the first place. I would replace the window with something that won't rot.
The window itself is aluminum I believe, however the wooden trim around it is all roted
 
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Old 06-15-18, 01:26 PM
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If you are putting a drain in, it needs to be below the floor slab and footing. It wont do much good if its not.

Most any foundation waterproofing product will do. The main thing is being sure the foundation is CLEAN and DRY before applying it, and coating the ENTIRE wall including the footing perimeter.

From the looks of that siding, water could just as easily be leaking into the block walls from above.

Window trim is pretty easy to replace.
 
 

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