PT wood fascia - just learned aluminum will not mix!!!
#1
03-08-19, 01:14 PM
PT wood fascia - just learned aluminum will not mix!!!
So i put up a new fascia out of PT wood. Seemed like a good idea, but i learned today that it is no good when mixed with aluminum. Needless to say, I have to take it down and replace with some new wood. What type should I use? Regular pine? Will it need to be painted even though it will be covered in flashing? I just put it up not too long ago and right now I have no problems as of yet but I want to get it taken care of asap! SMDH. Thanks
#3
03-08-19, 01:40 PM
OK thanks. I'm upset I have take down my gutter and do this once again. But I am also happy that I caught it early before I replaced all of my fascia, or it ate my brand new aluminum gutter. lol
#4
03-08-19, 01:44 PM
Group Moderator
I would not re-do what you already have up. Just let it go. You can deal with any issues if they every appear.
#5
03-08-19, 01:47 PM
Im really worried about it eating my gutter and the drip edge soon to go up. I already have to pull the gutter down because I do not have the correct flashing behind it. I might as well just do it now.
#6
03-09-19, 04:47 AM
Group Moderator
Yea, if you've gotta take the gutter down anyhow you might as well do it right. If you want to leave the pressure treated up there I would put a strip of tar paper between it and the aluminum.
The reason you can't put aluminum over modern pressure treated lumber is because of all the copper used in the treatment. It can create galvanic corrosion with any dissimilar (not copper) metal. All you have to do is prevent them from touching each other. Note that this corrosion will also attack your nails and screws so make sure you are using fasteners approved for treated lumber. They have extra coating layers to protect them from the corrosive environment.
The reason you can't put aluminum over modern pressure treated lumber is because of all the copper used in the treatment. It can create galvanic corrosion with any dissimilar (not copper) metal. All you have to do is prevent them from touching each other. Note that this corrosion will also attack your nails and screws so make sure you are using fasteners approved for treated lumber. They have extra coating layers to protect them from the corrosive environment.
#7
03-09-19, 07:01 AM
Group Moderator
That's another reason why PT wood is not good for fascia... are your gutter fasteners ACQ approved? Doubt it.
#8
03-09-19, 07:18 AM
I used deck screws to hang the fascia, but gutter fasteners? Highly doubt it. Smdh. The tar paper is tempting, but I know how my luck has been so I don't want to take a short cut.
#10
03-09-19, 07:38 AM
Or..............Could I just use PVC board and negate the extra cost by not having to buy or use flashing? And again, I truly appreciate your advice. I do not know where I would be without it.
ANOTHER FUN FACT: I also just learned what a sub fascia is. There was none on my home. It was just a 1" piece of lumber attached to the rafters, and that is how I replaced it. I know the most proper way to do it would be to add a sub fascia, but the original soffit wasn't built to accommodate this. Should I just leave it alone and forget about a sub fascia? I know my home isn't the only one without one.
ANOTHER FUN FACT: I also just learned what a sub fascia is. There was none on my home. It was just a 1" piece of lumber attached to the rafters, and that is how I replaced it. I know the most proper way to do it would be to add a sub fascia, but the original soffit wasn't built to accommodate this. Should I just leave it alone and forget about a sub fascia? I know my home isn't the only one without one.
Last edited by MrPC1; 03-09-19 at 08:01 AM.
#11
03-09-19, 08:01 AM
Group Moderator
Use pine. If it is getting covered it should never get wet. PVC will cost 2x what wood and aluminum fascia cover cost.
#12
03-09-19, 11:31 AM
Thanks. Just got some cheap pine from a lumber supply today! As far as the flashing goes, Can i just use a roll of something like this (below), or should I go with something pre bent?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Amerimax...8010/100064203
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Amerimax...8010/100064203
#13
03-09-19, 11:32 AM
Group Moderator
Unless you have a metal brake, I would use prebent fascia cover. It comes in 4, 6, 8".
Use gutter apron over the back of the gutter.
Use gutter apron over the back of the gutter.
#14
03-09-19, 11:42 AM
Ahhhh. I do not have a brake and am not into learning how to bend it myself. Hmmmm. since the flashing that came with the original fascia only comes up half way form the bottom (i don't know why either)- maybe I could leave that up and go over it with a 6 inch roll of aluminum? Thoughts? I'm trying to save money where i can.
#15
03-09-19, 11:48 AM
Group Moderator
Get prebent fascia cover that will be wide enough. You want the fascia to be long enough that it extends all the way under the gutters so that it is above the top of the gutter.
#17
03-16-19, 06:28 AM
So I have the pre bent fascia up. I had to cut a piece to fill a small gap at the end. The seam overlaps a couple of inches but does not lay very flush. Should this be caulked underneath, or let it go? In theory when the roofers put on the new roof and drip edge it shouldn't get wet. Thanks.
Last edited by PJmax; 04-07-19 at 07:55 PM. Reason: reoriented/resized picture
#18
03-16-19, 09:14 AM
Group Moderator
Trufthfully, no professional would use a piece that small for the reason you have just discovered... they just look bad. You measure things before you start to plan the lengths of your pieces and where joints will be. So do whatever you think. If you would have bent the piece inward a little so that it would lay tighter, it would have looked better. I would take that little piece off and put on a longer one, even if it meant it would overlap 2 feet.
#19
03-16-19, 09:37 AM
Yeah, I measured wrong and was off by like an inch. I should have a longer piece leftover when I am done this job. I will just use that and let it overlap. Thanks.
When I took a blower to it it kicked up a lot of sand and black stuff then I see some bald spots.
Called the roofing company out and they said the only way to repair this is to put more asphalt paper over the low areas, then another sheet over that but smaller, then another sheet, so basically build a pyramid to create a high spot. They will make a rectangular pyramid composed of a slightly smaller sheet for each layer.
Is this the right strategy?
The low spot shape is irregular. So if you lay a rectangular sheet down, you just raised the outside again, and so the inside spot will be lower by the same amount. I guess I don't see how this would solve the problem.
I am thinking if there is some sort of self leveling liquid that can be poured over this to level the whole thing, then another ply can be put over the whole thing to seal it off better?