Go Back  DoItYourself.com Community Forums > Exterior Improvement Center > Roofing, Gutters and All Waterproofing Anywhere
Reload this Page >

Are there shingles < $31 / bundle these days? Are they worth using?

Are there shingles < $31 / bundle these days? Are they worth using?


Old 06-09-19, 07:29 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: USA
Posts: 83
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Are there shingles < $31 / bundle these days? Are they worth using?

We don't need architechtural shingles for a reroofing of a shed. But that seems to be whats available at Lowes / Home Depot these days, starting at $31 / bundle. We just want functional. Are there cheaper ones out there that work? or if I can find them, they aren't worth using? Yeah, the shingle cost is a minimal part of the project.

I'll spend the $31 or more if that's the choice. I'd just like to know if I'm just looking in the wrong place.
Sponsored Links
Old 06-09-19, 11:24 PM
czizzi's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,376
Received 9 Votes on 7 Posts
Have heard from some that it doesn't matter which shingle style you use, the price will be the same. This is of course if someone is doing the work instead of you. If that is the case, would go with architectural shingles every time.
Old 06-10-19, 03:03 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 46,045
Received 118 Votes on 105 Posts
I haven't bought shingles in a long time but I remember architectural shingles being the same approximate price per bundle as regular shingles BUT it takes 4 bundles of architectural shingles to make a square while it only takes 3 bundles of the regular to cover the same area.
Old 06-10-19, 05:00 AM
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: U.S.A.
Posts: 2,020
Received 55 Votes on 50 Posts
You're right, you don't need the architectural ones for a shed, at least from an aesthetics standpoint, but, given similar prices, that's what I would use. Not that it takes more than a minute or two, but with three tabs you need to figure out where the last one in each row will fall so that you don't have a sliver on one end, and it it's a bit racked, out of square, you're either going to adjust as you go or see it every time you look up at the roof. With architecturals, you start at one end and run with them, just watching ahead so that you can trim the second or third one from the last so that you don't end up with one too narrow. And, from a functional standpoint, I believe that architecturals are a lot more enduring of wind and driven rain than are three tabs. These are my opinions anyway.
EdShnatter voted this post useful.
Old 06-10-19, 05:06 AM
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 4,434
Received 24 Votes on 20 Posts
I agree with not using 3 tab shingles unless your just flipping the house.
Make sure to go on line and read all the directions for a steep pitch roof and follow to a tee!
I've seen dozens of Gambrel style roofs shingles sliding off the roof because they where installed wrong.
Most where caused by someone using the line printed right on the shingle as the exposure line, that's not what it's there for, that's the nail line.
Set the nail to high above that line and it does not hold the two pieces of shingles together, there also needs to be more nails on the steep side.
In most cases the upper less pitch parts needs to have less exposure on the shingles, and double tar paper.
Before installing the shingles I'd be installing drip cap on all outside edges to help prevent the damage your trying to repair.
Make sure when installing to leave 1/2" over hang!
Where most Gambrel style roofs fail is where the pitch changes and they tried to just bend the shingle over the roof and they just crack over time.
An easy way to address that is to run the two roofs like you where installing 2 different roofs.
Run the steep side first and stop it where it angles, install drip cap (better yet coil stock that's been bent to match the roof pitch) then Install a starter strip of shingles and run the shingles like normal.
For my starter strip I cut off the top part of the shingle and spin the bottom part around so the glue strip is sitting at the bottom to help prevent the wind from lifting the first row of shingles.
EdShnatter voted this post useful.
Old 06-10-19, 09:31 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: USA
Posts: 83
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thank you all!

I'm too busy overthinking things. I meant to also mention - architectural weigh more, right? Will that be too much weight for the shed.

joe - yes! I am trying to make sure i do things right to avoid the water damage again. Interesting, I checked in my notes - I bought the shed in '98, and in '11 and '13 I have notes about putting (silicone) caulk / farting around with water getting in along the edge (I think a branch fell on the edge back then). So I've been ignoring it for a LONG time!

And Joe - your line: Make sure when installing to leave 1/2" over hang!

I am trying to see close up details of the bottom of a gambrel roof to see how they finish it / how far the OSB extends beyond the side of the shed. And yes, there's no drip cap. Seems like an absolute necessity? Water falls on the roof, some of that wicks along the shingles to the edges (side and bottom) to the OSB underneath? or even a driving rain - the OSB on the side edges are exposed? Even with the tar paper (and no drip cap) - seems the bare adge of the OSB is inevitable to fail!? Or is this just a poorly made shed? Although I DID get it from an 'Amish' place that uses air tools (no electric) and I had to go through someone else to get to them because they don't have a phone : ) I guess anyone can cut corners to meet a price point...

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Your question will be posted in: