Roofing detail & thinking about the next guy
#1
Roofing detail & thinking about the next guy
I've received a lot of good advice on this forum in the past with respect to roofing, so I'm "going to the well" one more time.
As I prepare to take on another area of my roof--where two, what I think of as, cascading rooflines meet--I'm thinking about how to make a good repair that will hold up well over time. But, I'm also thinking about the next person who will need to deal with the area, for example, when an entire re-roof is needed.
I'm attaching a photo of the area I'm concerned with.
Referring to the photo, the drip edge of the rear roof sits atop of the ridge-cap shingle of the roofline that runs into it.
The rake fascia also used to sit right on top of the shingles--until I cut away the rotted bottom inch or so.
I'm replacing the fascia with PVC. In fact, my new fascia will stick out about an inch more since I'm using a thicker spacer behind it.
So, assuming the next person to re-roof does not want to replace the fascia again, what's the best way to construct that area?
One thought I had was to remove the shingle(s) where the fascia and drip-edge dead end into the other roofline and run them into the roof sheathing--seal the edges--cover with ice & water and then shingle over.
I'm also considering "boxing out" the tip of the triangle so that there isn't a sharp angle formed where the roof-lines meet.
Oh, and I don't want it to look "goofy either" :-)
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
As I prepare to take on another area of my roof--where two, what I think of as, cascading rooflines meet--I'm thinking about how to make a good repair that will hold up well over time. But, I'm also thinking about the next person who will need to deal with the area, for example, when an entire re-roof is needed.
I'm attaching a photo of the area I'm concerned with.
Referring to the photo, the drip edge of the rear roof sits atop of the ridge-cap shingle of the roofline that runs into it.
The rake fascia also used to sit right on top of the shingles--until I cut away the rotted bottom inch or so.
I'm replacing the fascia with PVC. In fact, my new fascia will stick out about an inch more since I'm using a thicker spacer behind it.
So, assuming the next person to re-roof does not want to replace the fascia again, what's the best way to construct that area?
One thought I had was to remove the shingle(s) where the fascia and drip-edge dead end into the other roofline and run them into the roof sheathing--seal the edges--cover with ice & water and then shingle over.
I'm also considering "boxing out" the tip of the triangle so that there isn't a sharp angle formed where the roof-lines meet.
Oh, and I don't want it to look "goofy either" :-)
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Last edited by PJmax; 08-05-19 at 02:08 PM. Reason: resized picture
#2
No one has any ideas?
Can anyone suggest or point me to any photos or sketches of roof-lines meeting like the ones in the picture I uploaded? I'd like to see what a good treatment of an intersection such as mine should look like.
Can anyone suggest or point me to any photos or sketches of roof-lines meeting like the ones in the picture I uploaded? I'd like to see what a good treatment of an intersection such as mine should look like.
#3
Sturdy, since no one else has replied I'll take a stab at it. But I'm not a roof person.
Why not just put sheet metal flashing up behind the vertical section about 6" and have it lay on the bottom side about 6". I don't think looks will have any bearing. Look around your neighborhood and see what other valleys look like.
Why not just put sheet metal flashing up behind the vertical section about 6" and have it lay on the bottom side about 6". I don't think looks will have any bearing. Look around your neighborhood and see what other valleys look like.
#5
Thanks @Marq1 and @Norm201 for your input.
@Norm201, when you say "lay on the bottom side", are you saying "lay the sheet metal flashing on top of the shingles"?
@Marq1, there is step flashing along that edge, but I'm removing all of that siding and will be removing shingles to put down ice&water where that roofline meets the sidewall. So, I'll be installing all new flashing when I replace the shingles.
I've uploaded another picture that is a longer view of the area I'm concerned with. I've added a couple of roughly drawn shapes to, hopefully, illustrate what I have been thinking. Referring to the picture, the white triangle is the "box out" I described so I don't need to try to install shingles under the pointy intersection of the rake flashing/drip edge and the face of the roof.
The long, blue-gray, rectangle just above the roof-line on the left represents the PVC board that I'll paint to match the siding. The PVC will serve as counter flashing to the step flashing. So, I'm thinking that, when the entire roof needs to be re-shingled, the roofer could just remove the PVC to install new flashing--rather than bust out or try to get behind the Hardie planks that I'm installing.
Does that help?
Thanks again!
@Norm201, when you say "lay on the bottom side", are you saying "lay the sheet metal flashing on top of the shingles"?
@Marq1, there is step flashing along that edge, but I'm removing all of that siding and will be removing shingles to put down ice&water where that roofline meets the sidewall. So, I'll be installing all new flashing when I replace the shingles.
I've uploaded another picture that is a longer view of the area I'm concerned with. I've added a couple of roughly drawn shapes to, hopefully, illustrate what I have been thinking. Referring to the picture, the white triangle is the "box out" I described so I don't need to try to install shingles under the pointy intersection of the rake flashing/drip edge and the face of the roof.
The long, blue-gray, rectangle just above the roof-line on the left represents the PVC board that I'll paint to match the siding. The PVC will serve as counter flashing to the step flashing. So, I'm thinking that, when the entire roof needs to be re-shingled, the roofer could just remove the PVC to install new flashing--rather than bust out or try to get behind the Hardie planks that I'm installing.
Does that help?
Thanks again!
#6
I have a similar situation on my house. My only recommendation is the standard 'ice and water shield' going up the side to under the shingles, then step flashing over it, then shingles and siding on top.