We bought a house with a gazebo that got some bad boards right under the roof. It is the lowest row of boards of the roof. I am not sure if they are damaged by termites or rain, but they need to be replaced. Is the right way to do it to first remove the lowest row of roof tiles to get access to the boards, replace the boards, and then put the roof back together? [url]https://imgur.com/a/Fb9G7I4[/url]

We had our roof done a couple years ago by a crap installer. They hired a crap gutter company to replace the gutters. A couple of the gutters are pitched wrong - we have standing water in them at the far end. I'm trying to fix one of them on the 1st floor before I tackle the harder ones. It's 25' long with the drain at 1 end. Looking at the gutter compared to the soffit, there IS a slope to the drain. I started wondering if the soffit isn't level, but it appears to be. What's the right way to get the correct pitch for the gutter (and what do you consider the correct pitch? Googling, I get 1/4", 1/2 and 3/4" per 10 feet). I'm trying to do this with the gutter still in place and about half of the width of the gutter is covered by the shingle overhang and it's 10' off the ground. So overall, a bit of a nuisance. I remember back a year ago trying to pitch a drain line on the ground - even that was a pain. Over long runs, how do you keep it accurate? For the drain line on the ground, I've tried string level, I have a 6' level from harbor freight - I added a little block on 1 end to simulate the slope... Any other tricks? Also, the roofer didn't install metal against the facia - the gutters are just screwed into the wood. would adding metal behind the gutter, tucked under the drip rail be a good idea? Oh, and speaking of the drip rail - in some areas, it's far enough away from the facia that I can stick my finger in there, wasps are making a nest... and I can stick a long tie wrap up there and I guess into the attic area!? metal pushed up flush behind the drip rail would likely help keep bugs out, right? THANKS!