some new photos this year. I’m at a loss as to how to fix this.
I’m wondering again if I should add a small piece of downspout where the bulk of ice is to direct flow from the top section into the gutter below?
would larger gutters and downspouts help?
should I stop using the cables? They run into the almost flat section of the roof as shown in the previous thread. Should I put a downspout here to collect water from the top section and direct it into the gutter below? Should I put a downspout here directly where the ice is....to capture runoff from the above section into the gutter below?
First off, is it leaking into the attic? If not, quit obsessing over it.
Heat cables don't clear the roof of ice, they simply provide a path for water to drain so that water is not as likely to back up behind the ice and become a problem. So the cables are doing their job. Despite looking like a rats nest.
Unless you plan to scoop snow off your roof every time it snows, I don't think there is a solution. Its a stupidly designed roof for a northern climate.
You also need to understand, ice damns are a result of heat loss.
The snow gets trapped in deep areas, heat from the attic melts the lowest layer of snow, the snow above insulates, it then flows down the shingles to an exposed area, the edge of the shingles and re-freezes.
That then forms a damn that blocks the draining water forcing it up under the shingles and then into the attic.
To fix you need to find where the heat loss is coming from!
The insulation looks good. I think it’s solar melt or perhaps I’m making it worse by melting the flat areas of the roof with the heating cables (not seen in the photos).
Maybe, as XS stated the heat cables create a path, Ive seen them go down the inside of gutters. If your just melting material on the roof and it has no where to go you may be creating a bigger problem!
What do you think of me putting a piece of flashing or diverter along the red line area. The blue area freezes over, very thick, and the gutter is full of ice too. The area to the left of the red line gets sun, while the blue area is always in shade. I’m wondering if I could divert the water farther along the left where it won’t refreeze. My issue is solar melting and the quantity of water that comes down that spot from a large roof section above.
any examples of diverters installed as I’m thinking? Materials used? Fasteners?
As I've said a couple times- my law & real estate office was a former 7-11store that was converted into their regional office.The asphalt shingle roof in front discharges into a flat roofed porch, which caused consistent problems with ice dams. My solution was to set a 50 pound livestock salt block on a patio paver and cover it with a bucket. No more ice damming.
Similarly, when I was doing landscaping and plowing snow, the easy way to de-ice frozen gutters was to toss a full back of large water softener salt pellets up into the snow & ice that accumulate along the eaves. The salt pellets melt through the snow, down to the ice, and the brine trickles down and clears the gutters.
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A pest control guy was inspecting my attic crawlspace for termites. Fortunately, he didn't find any, but he did notice a small section of the underside of the roof deck, out at the edge, that had mold on it. It also seems to have spread to the lower part of a rafter. He suggested painting it with bleach, but since it's at the edge of the roof, it's hard to get to in the attic. Also, it could come back, and it would still involve finding and repairing a leak that's letting the water in.
I'm planning to get a roofer to repair it, but I just want to confirm that it will probably involve removing the shingles, cutting out the moldy section of roof deck (about 2' x 3') and probably the rafter, then splicing in a new piece of rafter, replacing the plywood section, and reshingling. Is there anything I need to watch out for, and does anyone have an idea what I should expect to pay?
Thanks.
I'm trying to figure out the best process to replace these outer (decking?) planks just above the eaves. The home was built in the 80's in Los Angeles.
Background:
A few years, before we moved in, they did some roofing changes. They added horizontal strips of wood on top of the .. gravel-impregnated bitumen .. (or whatever it's called). They then added cement roof tiles on top.
What they DIDN'T do was replace the water and slightly termite-damaged vertical-running planks (decking?) right at the edge. The tile nails started not to hold and began falling off. You can see, in the attached images, where the inspector (and I) examined the termite damage. It seems it's just the outer planks though. What's the most simple and practical solution for this?
I'm wondering about steps, warnings, and any other advice, like this (I'm just making this up):
1. First, remove tiles back at least 2 planks, to give room for the last good board to lift, without cracking tiles, while prying out the bad.
2. Pry up those horizontal runners they added (battens) enough to pull up the bitumen stuff.
3. Pull up the bitumen stuff carefully so as not to damage it. Warning: Don't fold it or bend it significantly! It can split. If you do get some cracks, patch it with (dunno).
4. Free the tastiest (eaten) planks. If you can pull the nails out from on too, good, otherwise you can pry them from underneath. Try not to damage the horizontal support wood (whatever's), but they don't really pretty from water ingress so some knicks are okay -- you can smooth that out and make sure to paint them with good coverage or.. more termites.
5. In the prior steps, you'll need to have made enough room to get nails into the replacement sheaths. Try to get a match for the width of course. They don't carry that size anymore but if you can cut your own and have a router (I do)... Good luck. If you're not that good with the router, and the sheaths fit too loose, fill the gap with (?)...
6. You can pre-paint the sheaths, but they tend to stick to each other if you do, and the neighboring damaged wood from your carelessness still needs more paint anyway. Might want to do a test fit first.
7. ....
8. ...
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