Metal Roofing
#1
Member
Thread Starter

Going through the pain of selecting a contractor for a metal roof..
I have had 4 estimates. Contractors A, B and C have been around 18k. D is 13k and the company has A LOT of excellent Google reviews, a rating of 5.0 and Grade A with the BBB. The difference in price is A,B and C contractors get their metal sheets from a manufacturer. D uses a guy on site with his own metal stock who cuts and bends the metal. D owner says it's a lot cheaper that way than buying from a manufacturer. Also, due to the pitch of the roof state code says the roof has to have standing seams. I have priced flat vs standing seam and it's a significant difference with standing seam being more costly. The other attractive thing about D is that the estimate includes taking 3 layers of shingles and a hot tar base off the old roof. A,B and C were going to charge about $800 a layer to remove the shingles. Removing all the shingles and tar base is a must as there are issues with the wood sheathing underneath.
Anyway, Contractor D sounds like a great deal and appears to have the review history to back it up. I'm going back to Contractor D with some questions about the estimate and wanted to make sure there are no surprises. My main questions are about the metal stock.
The thickness for the metal sheets is 26 gauge, is that too thin for standing seam and residential purposes?
Is thickness mainly decided for resistance to hail damage (have had pea sized hail once in 15 years)?
Is there also a paint application method that ensures the sheets won't considerably fade or even peel?
The price seems almost too good to be true but I don't want to end up with something the thickness of tin foil on my roof with paint chips flying around in a good breeze..
I have had 4 estimates. Contractors A, B and C have been around 18k. D is 13k and the company has A LOT of excellent Google reviews, a rating of 5.0 and Grade A with the BBB. The difference in price is A,B and C contractors get their metal sheets from a manufacturer. D uses a guy on site with his own metal stock who cuts and bends the metal. D owner says it's a lot cheaper that way than buying from a manufacturer. Also, due to the pitch of the roof state code says the roof has to have standing seams. I have priced flat vs standing seam and it's a significant difference with standing seam being more costly. The other attractive thing about D is that the estimate includes taking 3 layers of shingles and a hot tar base off the old roof. A,B and C were going to charge about $800 a layer to remove the shingles. Removing all the shingles and tar base is a must as there are issues with the wood sheathing underneath.
Anyway, Contractor D sounds like a great deal and appears to have the review history to back it up. I'm going back to Contractor D with some questions about the estimate and wanted to make sure there are no surprises. My main questions are about the metal stock.
The thickness for the metal sheets is 26 gauge, is that too thin for standing seam and residential purposes?
Is thickness mainly decided for resistance to hail damage (have had pea sized hail once in 15 years)?
Is there also a paint application method that ensures the sheets won't considerably fade or even peel?
The price seems almost too good to be true but I don't want to end up with something the thickness of tin foil on my roof with paint chips flying around in a good breeze..
Last edited by sybaris; 03-23-21 at 05:46 AM.
#2
How old are you?
Will it last your lifetime?
Typical corrugated metal roofing should last between 30 and 60 years or more.
What is the metal being quoted? Steel, aluminum? Painted or powder coated. Are you being quoted ice and snow breakers and what kind and where are they going to be located?
These might sound like stupid or smart as questions but think about it. You don't want to go cheap, but it looks like you did your home work. The fact that "D" has a supplier that can basically eliminate the middle man can save a lot and he's passing that on. What gauge are A, B and C quoting? 22 though 29 is typical gauge for residential application. He's quoting 26. A little thinner than you might like but it falls with in the limits. What about sound proofing? And any type of warranty? Powder coating is your best surface preparation, but a high quality paint should last. But the area you live in can determine how well a surface finish will last. Nothing can stop the ravishes of the sun. Any kind of warranty on the finish (aside from any rust through).
And the last question is 10 years, 15 years or 25 years or more down the road and you have problem, do you really think a warranty is going to do you any good? And keep in mind just like anything else a tin roof can be repaired just like any roof can.
Will it last your lifetime?
Typical corrugated metal roofing should last between 30 and 60 years or more.
What is the metal being quoted? Steel, aluminum? Painted or powder coated. Are you being quoted ice and snow breakers and what kind and where are they going to be located?
These might sound like stupid or smart as questions but think about it. You don't want to go cheap, but it looks like you did your home work. The fact that "D" has a supplier that can basically eliminate the middle man can save a lot and he's passing that on. What gauge are A, B and C quoting? 22 though 29 is typical gauge for residential application. He's quoting 26. A little thinner than you might like but it falls with in the limits. What about sound proofing? And any type of warranty? Powder coating is your best surface preparation, but a high quality paint should last. But the area you live in can determine how well a surface finish will last. Nothing can stop the ravishes of the sun. Any kind of warranty on the finish (aside from any rust through).
And the last question is 10 years, 15 years or 25 years or more down the road and you have problem, do you really think a warranty is going to do you any good? And keep in mind just like anything else a tin roof can be repaired just like any roof can.
sybaris
voted this post useful.
#3
Forum Topic Moderator
While I've painted a lot of metal roofs over the yrs I don't know much about the factory paint. I do know from driving up/down the road that some roofs fade a LOT faster than others. Since it doesn't appear to be color specific I assume it's brand specific. Not sure what would be the best way to tell which brand has the most color stable finish.
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the responses.
The workmanship warranty is lifetime, the metal manufacturers warranty on the paint is 40 years and the roof would last well past an age I would keep it as a rental.
Hadn't said anything about snow/ice breakers. Don't see that a lot around here, south central Indiana.
The other quotes were for 26 gauge as well. I asked about 24 gauge and the reply was $500 more for that.
Now that I think of it the paint isn't that much of an issue. The way the house sits and because it has such a low pitch you can't see the roof from any angle except if you are in my yard.
The workmanship warranty is lifetime, the metal manufacturers warranty on the paint is 40 years and the roof would last well past an age I would keep it as a rental.
Hadn't said anything about snow/ice breakers. Don't see that a lot around here, south central Indiana.
The other quotes were for 26 gauge as well. I asked about 24 gauge and the reply was $500 more for that.
Now that I think of it the paint isn't that much of an issue. The way the house sits and because it has such a low pitch you can't see the roof from any angle except if you are in my yard.
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Yes, going with D.
Getting everything in writing and since I live next door I'll be able to "supervise" the install.
Getting everything in writing and since I live next door I'll be able to "supervise" the install.
Norm201
voted this post useful.
#7
Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
He’s a better answer. Don’t put a barn roof on a home. Corrugated metal is no good. Ask those contractors if the warranty on the panels is still valid after they are penetrated with fasteners. That “lifetime” warranty will be voided when it starts to leak because the rep will find 1/2 the screws on the roof were fastened too tightly and they damaged the grommets so therefore you are no longer covered unless the contractor offers workmanship warranty and even then you’ll be lucky if they are still in business
#8
I think clarification is needed.
As you said the corrugated metal is not roofing but is used for roofing. No different than a piece of wood is not a house but used to make a house. The lumber mill is not warranting the house that the wood is used on.
Roof warranties regardless of the material aren't worth much after maybe two or three years.
Any roof or item is only as good as the workmanship put into it.
So let's not bash corrugated or metal roofing. If and when I need a new roof I will without hesitation consider metal. It's been proven technologies and is becoming more and more popular with residential home owners. Considering it has a life span of 50 to 70 years or more.
As you said the corrugated metal is not roofing but is used for roofing. No different than a piece of wood is not a house but used to make a house. The lumber mill is not warranting the house that the wood is used on.
Roof warranties regardless of the material aren't worth much after maybe two or three years.
Any roof or item is only as good as the workmanship put into it.
So let's not bash corrugated or metal roofing. If and when I need a new roof I will without hesitation consider metal. It's been proven technologies and is becoming more and more popular with residential home owners. Considering it has a life span of 50 to 70 years or more.
#10
Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Standing seam is a great system if that’s what’re saying. I would still be weary of any kind of “lifetime warranty”. Any real reputable contractor will never put corrugated metal on a house. Exposed fasteners is never a good idea on a roof no matter what.
#11
Forum Topic Moderator
My house has the old 5 V-crimp metal roofing that has been in place for over 25 yrs. I fully expect the roof to outlast me. It was originally put down with lead head nails but some of them [maybe half] have been replaced with screws. I wouldn't hesitate to install most any type of metal roof other than corrugated. All metal roofs with require maintenance at some point but replacing screws/washers and/or painting is still a lot cheaper than having to replace the roof.
Norm201
voted this post useful.
#13
Forum Topic Moderator
Norm201
voted this post useful.
#15
Forum Topic Moderator
Corrugated is the cheapest of all the different styles of metal roofs. You see it sometimes on barns [roof or walls] We used it on my son's shed because it was a good bit cheaper than the other metal roofing. It does ok if you give it extra overlap but then it doesn't go as far.