As soon as weather permits and I can get some help, I will be adding bathroom roof vent. Bought an Imperial Premium 4" from Lowes.
Although I'm confident about installing the unit, thought I would solicit any possible hints from others.
One thing struck me in the instructions. They state not to add any roof cement to the down side or lowest side of flange of the shingles. Seems odd not to.
In this particular install the fan is located directly below the roof location for the vent and will only be at most 2 feet up. Any reason I can't use hard vent pipe instead of flexible duct? I'll use a flex elbow on either end to align the duct.
I at least drill a pilot hole from inside the attic. That way you can see where your ducting is inside and where the rafters are located. If you do a small pilot drill in the attic leave the drill bit sticking up through the hole or shove a piece of wire through so you can see it from above to drill the big hole.
Do not seal the bottom side like they recommend. That way any water or condensation that gets under it can drain away. You can seal the bottom side of the bottom side of the flange to the shingles below if you want. Just imagine water and you want to give it somewhere to drain.
Steel duct caps eventually rust. I paint the vent with black rubberized wonder leak stopper in a can or brush on oil based paint as an extra layer of protection.
I at least drill a pilot hole from inside the attic.
Yes, that much I anticipated.
Never thought about rust on metal duct work. I'll just stick with semi ridged aluminum.
So your saying don't implant the vent into a layer of roof cement? But I can cement the shingle to the flange down side? (See step 3 in diagram)
Typically its preferable if the duct is near the ridge... less likely to get completely covered with snow where the wind can clear it off. When ducts turn to go straight up, I will always use a tee as (hopefully) a condensation trap. You cap one end of the tee (the trap), the duct comes into the side of the tee and makes a 90 degree turn before exiting out the roof.
Other school of thought is to keep the duct low on the roofline so that the ductwork can be kept buried in insulation... and its low enough to rake the snow around it, if needed.
So maybe that's why the fan connection is not straight up, but off to the side. So one must use and elbow or bend the flex duct for a condensate trap of sorts. The idea of a tee is a good one. In my case the vent will be close to the edge of the roof. Maybe about 4 to 5 feet from the gutter. This bathroom is on an outer wall.
A little more in expense but a lot easier to install. Get a 4" insulated flex duct. Install, tape and zip tie the flex duct. Drill the pilot hole in a location where you can easily work. Getting too close to the bottom of the roof edge is inconvenient to work. Reinstall the insulation around the fan when finished.
Am attaching photo. The wider face of the chimney is *not* the problem area. At the narrow end of the chimney wet areas show up after
rain, sometimes in the hairline cracks, but most drips down from the top. The chimney is 1930s and is undergoing repointing, soon to be waterproofed. The flashing looks absolutely perfect. Any ideas as to source of leak? Roof is architectural shingles about 10 yrs old. Thank you.
[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1124/screenshot_2021_04_17_02_01_52_1afd481ffe373fec51d190afe66dc5e673f23f0d.png[/img]
Trying to deal with all things relating to rain and snow melt. House was originally built in 1870 with a field stone foundation. Some of the sections appeared to have had some type of mortar added back in (assuming it's not original). Other sections appear to be needing something to prevent cold air and moisture from coming in.
I would estimate about 75% to be in pretty good shape, and 25% of the stone needs attention. I'm wondering what is the easiest way to get them sealed up. I have read that there are different types or mortar that can be used but I don't know how to figure out which is best. I have also seen some basements in the area where someone went after the gaps with Great stuff or something similar, not sure if that would be easier/quicker/acceptable?
I also have plans to add some dirt (probably top soil, unless there is a better option) around the back side of the house to improve the grade. After getting a better slope away from the house (I'm thinking for about 5 feet, but not sure if it should be longer or shorter), covering that area in plastic then some type of stone/gravel to keep water away from the foundation. The sides and front of the house slope away (front has covered porch to further help) already, but the back roofs slope together. I was considering gutters for the back side of the house, but I'm concerned that the downspout would end up draining onto the driveway causing major ice issues in the winter.
In the picture (not the best angle) I wanted to do the slope away from the house near the blue bulkhead door.
Any thoughts on mortar mix vs. great stuff vs. other for filling in between the stones to prevent drafts.
Does ~5' feet of sloping dirt, covered by plastic then by gravel seem sufficient to move water away from the foundation?
[img]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/file_010_fd9ec9dc5f634a0be0a8744ec76ae45992c9fd69.jpeg[/img]
[img]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/file_009_9670f3e08c1015341c29186528870707483ae73c.jpeg[/img]
Thanks!
04-15-21, 10:38 AM
_____________________________________
