But I don't know what to use for the tar to fill the pocket. HD and Lowes don't seem to have it. I can probably get something at the local roofing supply, but I don't want a 5 gallon bucket of the stuff. Can I use Flex Seal, or similar?
I actually used Flex Seal to fix the leak, but I after this storm passes through I want to fully redo the pitch pocket to do it right, since the membrane seal around the pocket has lifted significantly and I want to fix the pipe too. I have everything I need except the "tar/pitch".
I buy the compound at my hvac supply house. It comes in a gallon can. You can order from the link below. Flex seal would probably work too but may be more expensive.
Here is the problem with using anything other than something that is specifically a pitch pocket sealant. You want something that is specifically made for this purpose, for this thickness, and is going to last the life of the roof. Not every product when extruded into a pitch pocket will cure at the thickness that you are applying it. Some self levelling products may bubble as the top starts to cure while the thicker areas underneath remain liquid. This can lead to bubbles (holes) that can lead to leaks. And not every product is meant to be used on a roof, with UV exposure and high temps.
I'm eager to cover my gutters - I am up there 3 - 4 times a year cleaning out leaves (and we don't have trees near our house! and it could likely go for more cleanings).
Home Depot and Costco sell gutter guard by gutter glove. This is highly rated. But it only comes in 5" widths?
We have 4" wide gutters. The instructions talk of tucking the guard under your shingles, or bend it down so it goes behind the gutter (and you have to undo the screws holding the gutters to the facia), or bend it up so it's up against the facia.
Not sure about your houses, but my gutters start high / close to the roof. But by the time they get to the downspout, there's a couple inches of facia.
So I'd have to be doing a mix of bend down, bend up along the length.and or tuck under shingles. I don't want to disturb the shingles if I can avoid it.
Any thoughts on bending the back edge 180 deg ? so the effective width is 4"
a) would that work?
b) how would you do that?
Or any other advice?
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Currently four 3" pvc drainage pipes (for three downspouts plus one walkway drain grate) end together halfway down a hill causing severe erosion. I want to extend the pipes to the bottom of the hill. For esthetics and to save work my plan is to connect the pipes and have only 1 drainage pipe from the current drainage pipe ends to the bottom of the hill.
I'd like to use a corrugated pipe but am not certain what diameter pipe will handle the flow. I've tried using online calculators and every one shows 3" is fine but that doesn't seem sufficient. I'd appreciate assistance on determining whether 3" corrugated pipe is adequate.
The roof in that area is 1,100 square feet and the walkway is 50' long. My community averages 50" of rain annually but we just got 8" in 6 hours so I'm wondering if the historical calculators are accurate. The hill slope is approx. 10 degrees. Any input is appreciated.
09-01-21, 06:39 AM
