Gutter guards - is there an easy way to use them with 4" gutters?
I'm eager to cover my gutters - I am up there 3 - 4 times a year cleaning out leaves (and we don't have trees near our house! and it could likely go for more cleanings).
Home Depot and Costco sell gutter guard by gutter glove. This is highly rated. But it only comes in 5" widths?
We have 4" wide gutters. The instructions talk of tucking the guard under your shingles, or bend it down so it goes behind the gutter (and you have to undo the screws holding the gutters to the facia), or bend it up so it's up against the facia.
Not sure about your houses, but my gutters start high / close to the roof. But by the time they get to the downspout, there's a couple inches of facia.
So I'd have to be doing a mix of bend down, bend up along the length.and or tuck under shingles. I don't want to disturb the shingles if I can avoid it.
Any thoughts on bending the back edge 180 deg ? so the effective width is 4"
a) would that work?
b) how would you do that?
I'd be surprised if you have 4" gutter. Are you sure it isn't 5"? Here are the specs for 4" k-style.
I would go with a version of diagram b, and rent a metal brake to make an upturned bend on the back side. And if you measure and bend it correctly, the top of the gutter guard should sit fairly flat and level on top of the gutter. The bend in back should not be a perfect 90... it should be more like 100 degrees, so that it hugs the fascia as you drop it in place.
Marq1 - thanks! I thought I was reading that the foam material holds needles, the material gets brittle / crumbly over a couple years and it becomes a moldy mess. How long have you had these? What type of maintenance do you do with them?
If you have a moldy mess the problem is not the gutter covers.
The picture is showing material that was 6 years old at the time of the photo. It's been over 10 years currently and the only material I have replaced was in the inside corners where all the gritt from the shingles collected. It was nothing to just remove and replace than try to clean out.
The problem with the covers, if you have steep roof pitch it's impossible to get the guards attached to the back of the gutter. Plus all the screw holes and/or installing under the first shingle layer is not good practice.
Not to mention the installation time, takes just minutes per 4' section, I have done an entire ranch home in just a matter of a couple hours!
I have an extension basically another room that was added on to my moble home and it has a flat roof. Its pouring water inside when it rains so I went up on the roof and its ponding water right in the middle. The plywood is rotten so I need to replace the whole roof. My question is can I replace the whole roof with just new plywood? I have that black tar paper and shingles but i dont really know the process and dont have alot of money to fix it. It has that paper and then some thick rubber over it. No shingles.
Anyones advice would be awesome Thank you
I'm going to be redoing the pitch pocket on my flat roof.
[img]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/552x975/imag1299_sm_fca4b35d7fbb9a58f50e75f920a1416dad0fe018_ee12065bf6043f5113f80147aeb73b59dbe6f847.jpg[/img]
That's my image, from this thread:
[url]https://www.doityourself.com/forum/roofing-gutters-all-waterproofing-anywhere/629277-flat-rubber-roof-pipe-flashing.html[/url]
But I don't know what to use for the tar to fill the pocket. HD and Lowes don't seem to have it. I can probably get something at the local roofing supply, but I don't want a 5 gallon bucket of the stuff. Can I use Flex Seal, or similar?
I actually used Flex Seal to fix the leak, but I after this storm passes through I want to fully redo the pitch pocket to do it right, since the membrane seal around the pocket has lifted significantly and I want to fix the pipe too. I have everything I need except the "tar/pitch".