To attach pressure treated lumber to a regular 2x4, what's the best adhesive to use? I'll list the products I have here. If none of them are any good for this, what should I buy?

Tec Multipurpose Primer
Mulco Plastic Cement
Quad Window Door & Siding Sealant
Quikrete Concrete Bonding Adhesive
Restore Exterior Crack Filler for Concrete and Wood

It's for a roof. Obviously I would use nails or screws, but I don't have enough clearance to get my hand into the area, especially not with a hammer or a screwdriver in my hand.

 

Pressure treated wood is coated and doesn't glue well.
Is this for outside ?

 

Post a picture of what it is your trying to do.
I can not picture how just glue comes into play when building a roof, or even where pressure treated would be used.
None of the materials you listed are going to work.

 

Most of those are for other applications.

For anything other than a simple adhesive for indoors I like the PL brand!

 

Would a palm nailer work or screws with a right angle drill?

 

@joecaption: photos

No clearance to get a tool in the space

No clearance at all. I can't even get my hand in without a tool in my hand.

Even if I remove the flashing, there's still not enough clearance.

@cwbuff: There's no clearance for any kind of tool.

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It's for a small roof over a basement stairwell. There used to be plywood there. I was going to replace the shingles but once I pulled them off I realized the underboard was completely shot and had to be replaced. I can't replace it with new plywood because a sheet won't fit in my car. If I was going to use plywood I'd have to get the store to cut it, but then that isn't much better than using boards. I'm going to use 1x4s instead (they're actually 1x3.25). I happen to have some extra pressure treated boards here from a project a few years ago and finally have a use for them.

I don't even know how they got the original plywood attached to that beam in the first place. Maybe they built the stairwell entrance while there was no window frame above it. I'm not going to remove the flashing or the window frame and the window - I'd probably need some kind of scaffolding, which I don't have; I'd never be able to get it back in properly and I've had no luck hiring contractors this year - they're all swamped. And even if I removed the window frame & window I still might not have enough clearance because of the building exterior.

The flashing goes underneath the window frame. So I can't remove it, or put it back in after, without taking the window frame apart.

Maybe they never bothered to nail/screw the plywood to that beam and just relied on anchoring it to the side beams and the front. I attempted to examine the entire structure before pulling it apart, so I'd know how to rebuild it, but that's one detail I missed.

I'm thinking of buying 2 brackets so I can cut another beam and attach it to the framing a little bit away from the building exterior. I shouldn't have a problem anchoring the boards to that. But I'd still like to have the end of the boards anchored to the pictured beam, somehow.

 

Simple, toenail (toe-screw) upward at an angle. Use a 2.5" construction grade screw. Start at about a 60 degree angle through the 3x6 (or whatever that joist is), and it should catch the 2x6 you're using. I'd use 2-3 screws in each board.

I'm not sure about the use of those boards as a roof support, but at least you should be able to attach it securely.

 

Toe screwing the 2X4 through the ledger (is it a ledger?) will do the job but it looks like you are using the 2X4 as a rafter for a small roof. An unsupported 2X4 on it's side is not a very strong structural member. Think about turning the 2X4 on edge. If you do that there are several sound ways to secure it.

 

It worked. Actually I only had to screw up at an angle for 2 of the planks. For the rest of them I was able to screw down from above, also at an angle. That worked out perfectly because the planks are at a slight angle anyway. It's solid.