I was preparing to post a question about water dripping from a gutter. After I took some pictures and analyzed them I thought of a possible solution. I tried it and it worked!!!
I don't know how often something like this would come up but I am posting it for future reference.
This is the area outside a sliding door where water would drip and splash onto the door. This is from overnight condensation on the roof above. Water drops on the bottom of the gutter. On a dry day I poured water on the roof to see how the drips were occurring but none happened.
There were no leaks through the gutter and none between the gutter and fascia. Where do the drips come from???
After the test I was looking at the photos and noticed that the seam of the spacer tube that surrounds the mounting spike was facing up. (The one on the left in the photo above.) Could water be getting into that open seam and traveling through the tube to the point where the spike penetrates the front of the gutter and then dripping down the face and bottom of the gutter? I turned the tube so the seam faces down (like the one on the right side) and have had no drips since.
The thing I see is that the back side of the gutter is not pushed up behind the drip edge, that can alow water to get between the gutter and fascia board.
That is one reason putting slope to a gutter, besides looking bad, can cause water leaks!
That is just the lack of depth-of-field in the photo.
There is a cove molding above the gutter. The drip edge does not touch the cove and the front is a half inch or more in front of the top edge of the cove and about 2 inches in front of the back of the gutter. The slight deformation on the front edge in this photo is the result of an ice dam avalanche. The gutter itself does not dip and water does not pool in that area. The gutter slopes left-to-right at a very low pitch (compare to bottom of cove) and water drains completely.
Marq1: No problem. You raised some good points based on what you could see and I hope my clarifications will help others who might see this post solve their own problems.
We had new Owens Corning [color=#333333]TruDefinition®[/color][color=#333333] [/color][color=#333333]Duration®[/color][color=#333333] Designer shingles in Black Sable [/color]professionally installed three months ago. I have noticed this ‘line’ on the front of the house. Has anyone ever seen this before on new shingles? It runs vertical and then horizontal and then vertical. I see other vertical lines here and there as well but this is very large. I did not notice this large of a line at first install during the summer.
[img]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/76a1e744_2ff0_425e_a651_569c2021b112_eeb7971058b852ee02e392d1e3897c2e6108f2c6.jpeg[/img]
[img]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/7aff17b3_5cf1_449d_8de2_9ab4eca3300d_34919aa4d75190b8e460609267489fbabed3a600.jpeg[/img]
[i]From a distance[/i]
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I would like to get some input whether to install 5 or 6 inch gutters on a two story colonial with total 2200 square ft floor space and located inland central NJ . The fascia board is double 1x thickness, 1 x 5 in. sub-facia and 1 x 6 exterior fascia. I am told this may help better support the weight of the 6 inch gutter.
There are several trees in the area and gutters/downspouts can clog without proper maintenance, although gutter guards help. Roof is asphalt shingle with a 5/12 pitch. Recent rain storms have downpours of 2 inches typically and there is ice loading in the gutters during winter.
Some of the gutter contractors only want to install 6 in. with 2 x 3 downspout since they feel this is the new standard size. Others will offer both 5 and 6.
10-23-21, 07:25 AM
