Vertical white lines all over newer asphalt shingles
We had new Owens Corning TruDefinition®Duration®Designer shingles in Black Sable professionally installed last summer. I previously posted a question back last fall about a horizontal line that appeared on our newly installed shingles, to which it was discovered a row of shingles had been nailed too high. That issue was addressed and fixed by the roofer.
I noticed back in the fall and even more so now with the hot weather and on sunny days all of these vertical white lines on the front of the house. Has anyone ever seen this before on new shingles? On the corner overhang of the house I can see what appears to be some exposed nailing adhesive strips where maybe the edge wasn’t cut straight, but these white vertical lines are really visible when the sun hits the roof. The roofer cannot come back out until the late July to look at it, but honestly I don’t want them crawling on the roof right now in the middle of the hot summer as I already see some scuff marks on a few shingles (nothing major maybe from a ladder during installation in the middle of the hot summer last year, or maybe from when they were stored). . I may just wait until the fall when it cools down to have the roofer come back out. Anyways, I just wanted some ideas or input because it’s driving me nuts… is this just cosmetic? defective shingles;? crooked edges?
We have noticed no leaks since installation. Also, I do not see these white spots on the back of the roof but the sun doesn’t hit the back in the day like it does the front. And yes, we do have a ‘dip down’ on the corner of the roof where the rafters were installed weird, so the visual wave near the corner is structural.
Overall view from a differ angle where lines aren’t as visible
Looks to me like the granules have came off the shingles and has exposed the webbed backing of the shingle.
I would consider these shingles defective. Does this mean as the shingles age more others will do the same thing? Who knows. Talk to whomever the shingles were purchased from to see if they could get a representative of Corning out to look at them.
I just called Owens Corning and they said they don’t accept pictures and that I needed to contact the roofer. These areas are sporadic all over the roof and now that I’ve seen the back is doing it as well, I will just have him come out and maybe try to send him a picture as well. Thank you.
Hi folks,
Our house has a basement, a 1st floor (kitchen, family room, etc), 2nd floor (bedrooms), and an unfinished attic. The problem here is a very hot attic. I'm talking degrees easily into the 130s. We can feel the difference in temperature when we go to the 2nd floor bedroom level. The insulation in the attic was very bad, so we had all the gaps sealed and the insulation replaced (pink fiberglass stuff). It made a difference, but it's still too hot. After some research on the GAF website, I'm learning about a balance of intake air and exhaust air. From what I can tell, we have no soffit vents in the back of the house, but I'm not sure yet if they exist in the front (I have to get up there again). We have a ridgeline vent that runs the length of the house. There are also two gable vents, one on either side of the house. According to the GAF vent calculator, our square footage is 1,008 sq ft, and we need 242 Minimum Sq. In. of Net Free Area of exhaust needed at or near the ridge, and 242 Minimum Sq. In. of Net Free Area of intake needed at or near the soffit.
Question #1: How do I determine how much exhaust air I have at the ridge? Do I just measure the length and width of the ridge vent? So let's say the vent is 432" x 2", does that mean I have 864 sq inches of exhaust air? Something doesn't seem right with my math.
Question #2: A roofer wants to install an attic/roof fan. I'm all for it, but don't I have to figure out if I have intake at the soffit first? Otherwise if there is no intake in my attic, where in the world will it be pulling in the new air from?
MSPaint drawing included for fun.
Thanks!
[img]https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/777x693/roof_3fd665951c385b09690bb823791fcf4363a20d78.jpg[/img]
Greetings.
I am in the process of installing 18 200 watt solar panels, 9 on each side of the roof. With just the mounting brackets, the panels' output is about half of what it was last winter or spring when I tested them on the ground in full sunlight, just being propped up about 30 degrees and plenty of room for air in back. I need to install either 1 1/2 or 2 inch spacers between each bracket and the roof, and so far, square aluminum tubing seems to be the best option. So far I am looking at either 6061, or the less expensive option, 6063, 1/8 inch wall thickness. Would it be safe to go with the 6063 series as just a spacer, or should I stick with 6061? Is there any danger of a reaction between the roof and the aluminum spacers? If so, is anyone familiar with some double-sided tape from 3M (said to be almost as strong as glue) that would serve as a (hopefully long term) buffer layer? I have the whole array grounded. Last question: I live in eastern North Carolina, and am also concerned about the panels surviving hurricanes through the years. Am I even on the right track with this plan?
Thanks.
06-27-22, 04:58 AM
These areas are sporadic all over the roof and now that I’ve seen the back is doing it as well, I will just have him come out and maybe try to send him a picture as well. Thank you.
These areas are sporadic all over the roof and now that I’ve seen the back is doing it as well, I will just have him come out and maybe try to send him a picture as well. Thank you.
