Flat roof leaks where membrane meets the drip edge


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Old 04-14-24, 12:01 AM
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Flat roof leaks where membrane meets the drip edge

I had a flat roof replaced in 2016. All new waterproofing all new drip edges and fascia.

Here are some pictures during the reroof project.









Fast forward 18 months, the fascia on one side showed sign of water stains and became soft. I called them up and they came out, and said there is a leak at the edge and water gotten under and into the soffit and they need to tear up some roof deck and fascia and redo it for a fee. I asked if it's a leak shouldn't this be covered by some warranty? He said no because the membrane moves the drip edge metal moves and sometimes water gets in sometimes with hurricanes the wind will lift up the membrane. So I paid to have them repair it less than 2 years after the new roof was put on.

Fast forward to 2024, another section of fascia is rotted from a leak. I called a roofer (different one) and he tore up another section and repaired it. These leaks always at the drip edge.

I then inspected the entire perimeter and noticed a pattern. Whenever the drip edge overlaps another drip edge a lip is formed. This lip causes the membrane to stretch and made a hole where water can enter, and once that happens, seeds and dirt from overhead trees follow. Here are some pictures.







The entire perimeter of the roof have many of these "holes".

One roofer told me that this is because the drip edge has to be properly primed before they do the torch down or the membrane will pull apart.

Another roofer said the way he does it is he torches down one membrane, then do the drip edge then torch down a second membrane. That way there is sealing above and below the drip edge.

But for now the solution is to tear up the roof perimeter and redo it I asked if I can just caulk these holes with silicone, he said no that will not work.

Thoughts?
 
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Old 04-14-24, 05:22 AM
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The edge of your roof might be uneven (not straight). When the roofers put on a 8' long section of drip edge it can't follow the imperfections in the roof, creating gaps where they join. Sometimes it helps to cut the drip edge into shorter sections, especially if needed at seams to make them fit flush.
 
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Old 04-14-24, 07:16 AM
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I have a hard time thinking it is this much imperfection that an aluminum film so thin it cannot follow the profile of the roof. If the profile of the roof's edge is a problem it should be noticed during installation and voiced at the time.

I wonder, and I can't be sure now, but whether this issue (the drip edge overlapped point forming a hole) was present at the time the roof was completed, or these holes formed later. Did the membrane pull away later as the other roofer said due to not the drip edges not being primed and it got worst and worst. Water got behind it little by little and the wood became soft and the nails holding them loosened up and the drip edge come apart even more.

Could the issue be not nailing enough? I see from the picture one drip edge nail every 4 nails on the roof deck field.

In any event, if the profile of the roof is off, this is a framing issue. The property had lots of rotted rafters when the roof was replaced, so they had to sister new rafter tails to it pretty much 90% of the perimeter. Then much of the T&G 1X6 roof deck boards were replaced and nailed to the new sister rafter tails. This was an added $7000 surprise to the original reroof project. Of they redid the rafter tails, redid the roof deck along the edges, then any profile imperfection might have been created during that process.




 
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Old 04-14-24, 07:56 AM
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something obviously happened to them to get pulled up perhaps they was not nailed down enough or the nails pulled up and they should of used screws instead and I'm sure some form of roof sealant caulking is not really a permanent fix but you could try it if you want to put off the roof repair its likely better than nothing.
 
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Old 04-14-24, 12:18 PM
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Problem with the roof repair is this is happening along the entire perimeter of the roof. Ripping all that out and redoing it will be prohibitively expensive as a "repair". The quote I got will be $15000, plus the lumber (fascia or deck or subfascia at $8 per linear feet), and it being a repair it will be using mastic and modified and not like the original layers with torch down.

Since I am 8 years in with this roof, what is the life expectancy of this roof? 15 years? 20 years? I know Florida insurance companies will not insure windstorm coverage for shingle roofs if older then 15 years so in that sense I am more then half way. Does it make sense to repair this roof in such a manner now when 7 years from now the insurance will force me to reroof or face nom-renewal.
 
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Old 04-15-24, 09:59 AM
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One of my outdoor-buildings(large) has Flat roof. The roofer installed 'Single' in the first year after the construction, but the leak started two years later.
The previous roofer told us to install 'Rubber-roof' for the flat-roof due to the difficulties of installation not to leak again which we complied. So far, the 20 to 25 years after Rubber-Roof installation, there is no single leak.
One thing we, the family dislikes was 'smell' and 'stagnate moisture' inside the building developed, but those problems were all gone after the first year of installation.
 
 

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