NIC card


  #1  
Old 11-24-01, 09:48 PM
J
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Roof leaks, Detective work, and the best way to repair

I have been patching the roof over a large room for several years. It has a slight slope(15 deg) and was covered with 90# roll roofing about 5-8 years ago. I try to map the leak from inside, and then patch any cracks or holes in that general area with Henry's Roof Cement(#204). Sometimes this works a bit, but usually the leaks continue. One year I covered the entire roof with 6mil plastic(2 pieces, overlapped 6 feet) and amazingly some of the leaks continued. Since the roll roofing wasn't laid down very flat, there are some ridges and I have felt all the elevated areas with my fingers for weak spots, assuming that the rain can somehow soak through a weak(thin) spot even if there is no obvious crack or hole. I have covered any weak spot with more Henry's Roof Cement. But the leaks continue.

I'd like to ask for some advice and suggestions. I have seen mention of torch this and rubber that for repairs but have never see any of these at the lumber yards(or Home Depot) where I buy the roof cement.

I'm trying one more idea...after a recent rain I went on the roof and cut through some of the roll roofing and saw that it was wet underneath even where it had been patched, and so I continued cutting and peeling back the old roll roofing material until I found an area that was dry so I knew I had passed the leak in that area. What I'm thinking of doing is to take a 4x6 foot area where there are several leaks, cut away all the roll roofing heading up the roof until I've found dry areas. Then go to the first(towards the peak) overlapped strip of roll roofing above the dry areas, pull out the roofing nails so that I can slip the new roll roofing under this older roll roofing so there will be a new overlap. Then I'll lay one or two more strips of roll roofing(each one overlapped by the higher one) to fill the 4x6 foot area, and see if that takes care of the leaks in that area. The key, of course, if going as far up towards the roof peak as necessary to find dry(non leaking) area.

I'd like to hear some comments on whether this is a good idea. It seems to be better than this continued patching I've been doing, and I also don't think it would work to just put strips of roll roofing material over the old roofing on this 4x6 ft area(which is well below the roof peak) without any attempt to overlap the leading strip.

I'm also interested in hearing about the economics of using something like Sani-Tred for small area patches. It seems like it would be fairly expensive(25 sq ft area,, 1/16 in thick takes a gallon and buying all three compounds would cost $130.00 for a gallons worth.

All ideas would be welcome.

John
 
  #2  
Old 03-09-02, 10:27 AM
D
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Location: Minnesota
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NIC card

After reading the post on USB vs NIC for cable connection to internet, I thought maybe I should switch mine. Now it is connected via usb. Modem has both ports, so after I install the card. Do I unplug usb and connect ethernet cord to cpu and modem? Are there any settings I will have to change. I plan on networking the connection in the future so I thought that the NIC route will be better. Any suggestions on good cards for a reasonable price? I think Road Runner will provide one, but do I want to use that one?
Thanks
 
 

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